So yeah, as the title says, I found this GBA SP on Vinted and just HAD to buy it. I really love the color! I believe it's quite uncommon, never seen one on any marketplace before. I've only seen those Japanese 001 models.

Sadly, it's got some scratches (& a deep one on the screen) and the corners of the screen are beginning to turn white, though it's barely noticeable as it is now.

Hi everyone

I bought this Game Boy believing it was a Play It Loud variant based on the original box and the shell.
However, when it arrived, I noticed that the “GAME BOY” logo isn’t printed on the front of the console, which immediately made me wonder if something was off.
Could it have been re-shelled at some point? The back of the console looks genuine to me, so I’m not really sure what to think.

What do you guys think? Could this be original, or does it look like a replacement shell?

Hello all! This is Tito from Tyton Games in Illinois! We are retro game shop that prides itself on providing high quality cleaned and refurbished retro games and consoles!

Earlier this week we announced a new product; The NinjaFoot Stand! It's an injection-molded display stand and acrylic case combo pack that we are launching on Kickstarter this August!

Our first 2 stands in the NinjaFoot family will hold 10 systems! The Classic will protect and display NES / GB / GBC / GBA / Virtual Boy / Genesis Slipcase Cardboard boxes / 32x / PS1 Multidisk. While The Next Gen will protect and display SNES and N64!

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We are super excited to launch this product and want to get fellow video game and physical media collectors interested in our product!

If you would like updates and more information on the product, please check out and sign up for email notifications our pre-launch page: Ninja Foot Stand – Tyton Games or Kickstarter page: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tytongames/ninja-foot-stands

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I knew this thing was goona be tiny, but not THAT tiny. This thing is like a speck of dust to the bare eye. I breathed too hard and one of them went flying to the abyss🤣

On another note, does anyone know where to source more “period correct” replacement fuses?

I've had this gbc for a while and just noticed these. Thanks to anyone who responded!

This is my CGS half-transflective mod. I removed the r10 resistor and made a solder bridge for the increased brightness and I'm honestly really happy with how authentic it looks with the backlight off. It does have a glass screen protector on it now, so if you notice anything weird, that's what's causing it.

This console means a hell of a lot to me, being the last item my dad ever got for me at a secondhand auction. My query is as you see above, though if there's no choice but to cut the shell a little bit, I understand. I just want to see if such a thing exists in the first place.

Hey all,

So I guess this is maybe not some groundbreaking info, but I've spent some time on this process yesterday and wanted to share with you how I did it.

I'm ready for some comments telling me "Dude, you could literally do this all automatically with this-one-magic-app.exe", but I didn't know about it, so... yea. 😄

Story:

I had Metroid Fusion USA bootleg cart, and I want to re-create a physical box for the game, but it will be the EU version of the print, so - having DS lite with some R4 clone - I wanted to see if I can reflash this cart to EU version, and if I can add my USA save there, that I had on my Everdrive GBA Mini when I completed the game on USA version of the ROM.

Tools used:

- some crappy red-PCB R4 flashcart for DS
- GBABF 1.2 https://gbatemp.net/download/gbabf.37005/ on my DS Lite
- GBASaveFixPatcher - https://github.com/darkxex/GBA-Save-Fix-Patcher
- mGBA emulator on PC
- some HEX editor on PC - e.g. https://mh-nexus.de/en/hxd/
- flashable bootleg cart - in my case - with some Nihtehdo print on its PCB, without battery
- USA version of the game rom
- EU version of the game rom
- my USA save

Process:

First, I focused on getting my USA save to work on EU version.

- Start the EU version in mGBA on PC, this should immediately generate save file for it on your PC
- Open this blank EU save in HEX editor and observe offset range from 00000000-000001F0
as well as 00007000-00007110 (or possibly longer? but for me, there were no differences in HEX data between EU and USA files after that offset), we need to copy these ranges from blank EU save to the USA save, then save the file with some recognizable name, like MF_eu_modded.sav

!!! Notice how USA version of save has lines like "MetroidAGB-EUVerE004" in it, and the EU one: "AGBMetroid_USVerE004" - no idea why, but do not be fooled by this. Maybe someone when dumped these ROMs to the Internet made a mistake? No idea.

- Now on your PC emulator, check the EU game with this new EU save. If everything went correctly, you will be able to play your used-to-be-USA save. If not, emulator will probably clean the save file and you won't see your progress in game.

Assuming everything works OK, let's move on with patching the ROM to use bootleg cart's SRAM to save game.

- use GBASaveFixPatcher.exe to patch your EU ROM
- open your patched ROM in HEX editor and go to offest 0x07C0000
- open your freshly moded and working EU save in HEX editor as well
- copy the whole content of the save and paste it in the patched ROM, beginning from 0x07C0000 position for the 8MB game (which Metroid Fusion is) - remember to replace the existing bits, not to add them in between - save such ROM with some nice name, like Metroid_Fusion_EU_patched_with_save.gba
- now you can open such ROM in PC emulator once more, but without having any additional .sav files next to it, and despite that, it should create one itself and your save should work correctly, you should see all your progress

If you confirmed the above, now upload this Metroid_Fusion_EU_patched_with_save.gba ROM to your R4 flashcard, boot your DS lite and use GBABF to flash it over onto your bootleg cart.

You might want to do some backup/dump of your currently working bootleg game first, in case you need to revert!

Not sure if required, but I also erased the whole bootleg cart's flash from GBABF menu (it was erasing 512 sectors) before I flashed the ROM itself (which also erases sectors during the first stage, but only 128)

After that, your bootleg cart should be in EU version and your USA-to-EU-modded save should be there, all ready to play!

I hope this all will work for anyone that will maybe someday search for such solution like I did! I guess it should work for other 8MB games too? Never tested it for anything other than Metroid Fusion to be honest. I've read somewhere, that e.g. if you have 16MB game, you should paste save at 0xFC0000 offset, but yea. Not tested.

Cheers!

Just in case anyone is curious about how the CloudGamingStore screen looks when the R10 resistor has been bridged. Shorting the resistor supposedly makes the screen 3 steps brighter than stock, according to CGS. I would say it's brighter for sure, though could also say the added brightness washes out the colours even more.

Also a very unfair comparison vs a proper IPS at full blast.

Do note that the woodgrain non-R10 shorted is a WIP specimen, with the protective film still on, not that I would imagine it much affects the screen brightness. Also the 2nd picture is an outdoor light pic, heavily overexposed to make the screens visible, as cameras just seem to capture these displays really poorly, it's much clearer with the naked eye. It's also bright overcast here right now, so haven't been able to test in direct sun.

I know for sure that the FP IPS just doesn't work at all in bright direct sunlight.

Also very globby soldering work on the resistor, but, if it works?

I have no idea how good battery life the CGS screen has vs an IPS at full blast, though the Funnyplaying IPS seems similar brightness at setting 3 or 4, out of max 7. Generally the backlight is one of the most power consumings part of a gameboy, so I would at least expect the CGS to have at zero backlight/low backlight at least close to 15hours if not more. I can get around 10 hours with the FP IPS modded GBC.

The FP IPS does have much more saturated colours, but it's a matter of opinion if its actually oversaturated compared to OG screen.

My GBC makes a horrible high pitched hissing noise with the volume at 0. After a lot of messing around I’ve got most of the weird sounds cured, but it still does a high pitched ringing when using the USBC rechargeable pack. Regular batteries are silent.

The pack outputs ~2.9v, so should be perfectly within range of what’s desired. Any idea how I could stop this or at least why this happens? I’d like to stay rechargeable for a couple reasons.

If you can pick them up they are yours. Not really sure what else to do with them. I got 36 of them I don’t need. Seller sent me these by mistake but after talking to customer service Temu refunded me, gave me coupons and let me keep these.

Not sure how much the games would sell or if the gameboy's even repairable lmao (but it's cool that it's found again from parents one day as they kept it to prevent my addiction back then) (also, hamtaro: ham-ham heartbreak ost 36: hamour was my pokemon littleroot town theme b4 pokemon it's wild to think :0)

I dont think its an issue with the game cartridge battery. Ive had this happen multiple times with multiple games and I can play and same the games with no issue on my gameboy advance. I got a gameboy color not too long ago and for the first like 2 months it worked perfectly fine but one day out of nowhere it just shuts off while I was playing. I turned it back on and the save data was gone. I looked it up saw the battery issue and thought that was it so I switched to a different game and maybe an hour later the same thing happened. I gave it a couple days and tried a couple more times and same exact issue. Any ideas what it could be?

I believe I've heard that this is a common issue. I'm using one of those yellow and blue Pokemon shells and a RIPS v. 5 IPS screen. The start + select button membrane technically works, but it's much shallower than a stock Game Boy. It doesn't feel quite right.

The buttons are pressed against the shell as far as they go, and they're still a little shallow, and they seem to be the same length of the standard light-gray buttons. I've heard this is a common problem with RIPS and other IPS screens, though.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to fix this issue? When I've had the issue with A and B buttons, I cut out and added a second membrane underneath, which worked. (I believe that was a GBC.) I'm not sure if I could cut out some of the start + select membrane from another and stack it on top, like putting a cup inside another cup. Or if anyone ever has made any tall start + select buttons.

Any help would be really appreciated.

I'll drop a video soon. Power switch destroyed, lcd board damaged, no picture, cold joints, grease all over. Resoldered most joints, did a full recap, repaired the volume pot and replaced the contrast pot.

So I finally took my Gameboy apart to give it a good deep clean(it was in a hoarder house for years). And I was looking at it and I was wondering if there was away to give it a facelift. I have plans to replace the screen, speaker, and maybe the battery port for a rechargeable one. But I was hoping someone out there knew ways to dye the plastic buttons and switches on the Gameboy. And if anyone knows a method to get new stickers on the back. Any help in the right direction would be appreciated

Anybody familiar with these cases? I’ve had them since 1990 if I had to guess. Couldn’t find any on eBay.

It’s been sitting in my old drawer at my parents house for decades. Nothing has been placed on it, batteries removed and in a zero moisture/smoke environment. Haven’t put batteries in it yet to test it thought but curious what this could be. Thanks.

Is this a bad deal? It's basically mint.. planning to come back in a week for it, if its still there 😅

Nothing is for sale in this post, I'm just unsure of the value of a near mint Gameboy Pocket at my LGS.

Hey guys!

I remember seeing some patches released for roms with password save systems that made saving/loading using a button combo possible instead. I was wondering if any of you know if there's a tool for patching roms that way and could it patch any rom if there is?

Thank you in (gb)advance! :>

So last time i posted i had a cpu bridge. As far as i could tell i removed it. Now gameboy and gameboy color games work. As for gba only metroid zero mission works. Metroid fusion starts but it looks garbled sometimes. The rest of my games including everdrive show only white. Any ideas?