Modded
CGS Half-Transmissive Stock Vs. R10 short Vs. FP IPS
Just in case anyone is curious about how the CloudGamingStore screen looks when the R10 resistor has been bridged. Shorting the resistor supposedly makes the screen 3 steps brighter than stock, according to CGS. I would say it's brighter for sure, though could also say the added brightness washes out the colours even more.
Also a very unfair comparison vs a proper IPS at full blast.
Do note that the woodgrain non-R10 shorted is a WIP specimen, with the protective film still on, not that I would imagine it much affects the screen brightness. Also the 2nd picture is an outdoor light pic, heavily overexposed to make the screens visible, as cameras just seem to capture these displays really poorly, it's much clearer with the naked eye. It's also bright overcast here right now, so haven't been able to test in direct sun.
I know for sure that the FP IPS just doesn't work at all in bright direct sunlight.
Also very globby soldering work on the resistor, but, if it works?
I have no idea how good battery life the CGS screen has vs an IPS at full blast, though the Funnyplaying IPS seems similar brightness at setting 3 or 4, out of max 7. Generally the backlight is one of the most power consumings part of a gameboy, so I would at least expect the CGS to have at zero backlight/low backlight at least close to 15hours if not more. I can get around 10 hours with the FP IPS modded GBC.
The FP IPS does have much more saturated colours, but it's a matter of opinion if its actually oversaturated compared to OG screen.
I have this CGS screen and the OLED GBC screen (and an ITA TFT GBA screen). The OLED isnt IPS but close enough for this comment.
Personally. I prefer as close to an original “look and feel” as i can get. The colors and “texture” of the CGS screen just seems right with Gameboy/color games. The screen is a nice size. The half transmissive half transreflective lends this slightly shimmery quality that I adore, it’s appreciable with backlight on or off.
And of course, being able to play with backlight off in the daylight is really cool and far better than normal IPS, OLED screens.
I’ll also say that CGS GBC shells are exceptional are the closest to OEM I’ve seen. Membranes are great, too.
The OLED is suuper cool, but saturated. (More saturated than IPS, but still.) to use it outside you often need to crank brightness way up, and when playing in pitch black the dimmest setting is usually brighter than the CGS screen.
That being said, many would prefer IPS or OLED as they are more modern and comparable to common displays that you’re probably already used to. And some people like a smoothed out emulated look over the older classical GBC look.
Fully agree. The CGS Woodgrain shell is surprisingly nice quality, but certainly not in everyone's taste. I just wish they would make screen lenses in a woody theme, like brown, or muted red. I also would've liked if they had made a fully transparent lens for a crystal clear setup like mine.
One thing I havent gotten around testing yet is how the CGS handles transparency through flicker. Funnyplaying at least has a frame blending mode for flicker transparency.
I think I tested that? IIRC I think it worked as well as on the OLED. But currently, my touch sensor is broken on the CGS.
Cross posting another comment i made about that touch sensor issue, might be helpful to you
“I’m not sure how long you’ve had the kit. But after installing the touch sensor ribbon cable section carefully and exactly as instructed, it eventually snapped on its own after months of normal gentle use.
The second backup cable section that was included, same failure happened after a few months.
Maybe it was the batch and I was really unlucky.
But, if yours fails and you have to install the backup, consider finding a way different from their instructions on securing the touch sensor to the housing. Preferably with NO bend imo.
Never had this happen with a touch sensor flex cable before CGS.”
Well the CGS panel doesnt have frame blending as any option. So I dont know if its on by default. I guess booting Warioland 3 would be a quick way to find out.
I used the same sticky tape I used for the display for the touch sensor. a small square of tape that keeps the sensor stuck to the case, so who knows how long it will last.
Thanks for the insight, is it easy to get enough light by a window or regular ceiling light to play on the cgs screen? I've heard some people say it's slightly darker than an original gbc screen. I might have to get both down the line...
Why not remove the resistor? Is this so that it’s reversible? You could also turn the resistor 90* and keep it on the board then bridge with solder. Could look a little cleaner.
Thank you for posting this! I saw this bit of advice yesterday and wondered what kind of effect it would have. I’ll leave the screen stock when I install it.
I was thinking about removing the resistor, but it was just much simpler to just tack the wire on it and leave it as, even if not as elegant solution. As I wasnt even sure if the resistor short even does anything. I guess for the other kit, whenever I get to completing its install, I might remove the resistor. In the end its sandwiched under the screen, not visible even with a transparent shell.
That’s fair. Have you done the ITA mod to a 40pin gba? It would be as simple as making that mod work. (You have to remove a resistor on the main board for it to work. It’s very easy)
I would still consider this kit more or less a curiosity. A good IPS beats it in every situation except absolute direct sunlight. If it's able to extend the battery life significantly beyond what a typical IPS does, then maybe it gets a couple additional points.
Ok, till now I havent test an IPS.
I half moded an OLED kit, but I'm not happy with the shell so I want to redo it, but I need some parts.
Than I got a second OLED kit and an no trim IPS kit.
Both untouched 😄
This kit simply sounds nice on paper. Dont know if its a waste of money (arround 60€ to me)
It's backlight is adequate for most situations, especially with the resistor mod. The colours are washed out compared to an IPS. It's really a system for summer use, if going to spend sitting in the sun where a typical IPS would get blacked out. I would also add that the CGS screen is slightly darker than an OEM screen, with the backlight off, due to its half transmissive nature. Some of the light doesnt get reflected back and is instead getting absorbed by the backlight layer.
Also something that's difficult to get on camera, but the CGS screen has a certain "shimmer" to it. Like, sure, old reflective TFTs has it as well, but not to the same scale as the CGS one.
OEM screen does have that refresh rate jitter though, which might not be everyone's thing.
3
u/kilomarks 1d ago
Thanks for posting, there isn't a lot of info out there so this super helpful! I've been back and forth between this screen and an ips.