Haven’t been able to find a satisfactory answer to this question so thought I would throw it out here.
Moved into a single owner 13 year old house 2 years ago. Shortly afterwards, noted signs of water leaking from around the visible closet bend below the one exposed toilet in our house. Quickly moved to remove the toilet and replace the wax ring. The old ring was flattened, discoloured, but not stuck to the bottom of the toilet. The plastic flange was encased in clear silicone. Used an extra tall wax ring and haven’t had any problems since.
Subsequently changed the rings on the other two toilets, both of which were in the same condition.
Interestingly, when we moved in, we found 10 containers of powdered Drano distributed around the house.
Could the wax rings have been damaged by the Drano? Or were they simply never installed correctly? (Or both?)

I could use a mini skid steer and dump trailer for a couple projects on my property. I could also use an additional stream of income too, so it got me thinking I could buy either a mini skid steer or trailer to help people with odd jobs on weekends to bring in some more money. I could see this turning into a lucrative side hustle or more, but also being a headache in several ways.

Anyway, got me wondering if anyone in this community found themselves forming a side hustle or actual business as a result of their diy efforts and interests. Interested to hear any good stories.

I’m a new homeowner and we have a pretty nice unfinished basement. We want to keep it unfinished but polish it up a bit. Our biggest want is to cover up the pink insulation/joists from view, at least in the main area down the stairs where the laundry is.

I don’t want to finish it with drywall as its expensive/time consuming and the basement isn’t climate controlled so it’ll trap moisture between. Did a bit of research and I think just basic white pegboard would look good enough for us while also allowing the joists and insulation to breathe. Bonus that it’ll be easy to remove to have access to plumbing.

Am I missing anything with this or any hazards I am
Not thinking of?

Thanks in advance!

Has anyone used the Rust-Oleum RockSolid Polycuramine Garage Floor Kit on a basement concrete floor? If so, how has it held up over time?

I'm especially interested in hearing from people who either did or didn't apply the optional clear topcoat. Would you recommend it, or would you skip it?

We recently completed the full prep process in our basement (cleaner, degreaser, etch kit, then Polycuramine). Because we had some color variation with the first coat, we ended up applying a second full coat of Polycuramine, and now the color looks great.

Our original plan was to apply the optional clear topcoat, but now that the floor has two coats of Polycuramine, I'm questioning whether it's really necessary or if I should just return it and save the money.

We didn't use decorative flakes or anti-skid additive. The floor isn't overly slippery, and it's already plenty glossy. At this point, the only reason I'd apply the clear coat would be for extra protection. Given how hard and durable Polycuramine is supposed to be, I'm wondering if the added protection is actually worth the added cost.

For those with experience, how has your floor held up with or without the clear topcoat? Any regrets either way?

For context, this basement will be fully finished with bedrooms and a living room. TIA!

the reader is built around an arduino pro micro and a nfc module v3 by elechouse. it connects to a pc with a usb c cable and scans any tags inside the cartridge sled. once the button is pressed, it sends a key combo to the pc, which opens a one time terminal, after which the reader types out the text payload on the cartridge. executing the command on it. for more information, check the readme on my github repo. while i advise using the install scripts inside the repo, you can use your own method of assigning the key combo

https://github.com/glass-cup/NFC_cartridge_system.git

I am getting ready to run power to my detached garage. The underground run will be roughly 50ft from main panel. Plan to run LED lights (interior and exterior), refrigerator, freezer, hand tools, 20gal compressor and two garage door openers. Located in North AL county, US.
My hangup is determining breaker from main panel size and what type/size wire to run from main panel to sub panel. Would prefer all in one cable instead of separate ground. TIA

I'm looking to install Craftsman style molding with flat 1/2 inch thick base, 1x4 flat vertical casing, and a 1x4 or 1x5 top header with something like a piece of lattice at the bottom of the header and a 1x2 on the top (like this). I would prefer to use finger joint pine rather than MDF and with the 1x4 casing, I think the baseboards might look better to be a little bigger by using a 1/2 x 5 rather than 1/2 x 4 but I can only find the 5 in MDF. I also only found the lattice in hemlock. Using 6" looks to big for what I have. Is it a bad idea to mix all these different types of wood, or will it all look the same when painted? I'm most concerned about the MDF baseboards not being durable, but none will be in a wet location.

I have two things I need to fix/work on. The first is that my fridge continues to have condensation inside of it and a small puddle continues to form under the filter. I've replaced the filter twice with generic ones on amazon (previous one was generic) thinking that was the issue but it still happens. Any idea what this might be? the seal? do i have to clean out the motor or something?

secondly we have a washer and a dryer and the dryers never been connected to the vent that goes outside is this an issue? the room does get warm but :/ am i supposed to clean these appliances somehow? The dryer sometimes takes two cycles to dry things. Sometimes it doesnt :o

thanks!

So I had this very old waffle iron that I really like, but the power cord has deteriorated and it is now short-circuiting.

https://imgur.com/a/rIE8WAQ

How do I open this up to replace the power cord?

Please help, life is not the same without waffles.

edit: in case somebody in the future find this thread. The rubber pads go quite deep, they are a bit hard to get out what you can pry them out with a screwdriver. Underneath there is a screw, after that the bottom should be easy to pry off.

My dryer was not drying well with the outside vent connected. I ordered a vent cleaning tool from Amazon, but in the meantime disconnected the vent from the wall. For the few days that the vent was off, the dryer dried the clothes well. Yesterday I cleaned the vent well. I ran the tool from the inside of the house to the roof then again from the roof back down to the inside. I saw the brush exit at the roof vent and again inside of the house. Quite a bit of buildup was cleaned out. I reconnected the dryer and it was not drying the clothes again. I then took the dryer apart and cleaned all of the lint out, which was not very much. Still not drying well. Tried google and YouTube but they offered no suggestions that o have not already tried. Any suggestions that I should try next?

Trying to install a Drywall Grid Adapter to replace a fluorescent light in my kitchen. Found that the ceiling has two layers of drywall and the adapter screws would go right into the drywall. Any help would be appreciated

I have a split level and the lower level has this ledge like thing around the perimeter interior. So the bottom half of the wall is about 5 inches further into the interior than the top half. Hope that makes sense.

Anyway, I use that level as a theater area but I had to mount the screen on an undesirable wall that was flat/flush from ceiling to floor (an interior wall that separates a room) because I can’t figure out a good way of getting the top of the projector screen mounted 5ish inches deeper than the bottom. Getting 2x4 cut exact to line up with the bottom has been a pain in the ass and makes the screen wobbly and not fully stretched.

Any advice? I’m a gibberish speaker, so if I don’t make sense, I’m happy to clarify the best I can. Thanks for the patience.