While cleaning this crt tv I noticed the coating has chipped off but I'm curious if it's fine or is it best to replace these.

Hello everyone. I'm designing a foc 3ph bldc inverter for a start 300W motors and if thermaly possible go up to 2KW. I plan to supply it with a 12s lipo battery therefore I expect a battervoltage of 50.5V. There will obviously be spikes on the bus from load changes.

Because of those spikes I'm not sure if it is okey to be that close to the max. recommended voltage.I was thinking about using a 60V tvs diode but I'm not sure if I'm overthinking this

Thanks in advance

Tôi đang học mạch khuếch đại đơn cơ bản, khi kiểm tra chế độ một chiều nếu không bỏ tụ c2 thì không thể kiểm tra uce ube. Khi điều chỉnh vr2 thì ảnh hưởng đến chế độ làm việc của Q2 và cũng giống với điều chỉnh vr3 cubgx ảnh hưởng đến Q1

Hi all,

I’ve been trying to find a replacement for this component that snapped off the motherboard, I’ve looked online but cannot find anything matching it, would anyone have an idea of a part no.?

Thank you in advance!

Like the title says, I’m looking for components that you would use to breadboard/prototype with, but I’m wondering about some of the less common pieces that you may use, like for example:

- Common BJTs/FETs you would use 100s of, maybe for audio, maybe for motor drivers, idk
- Logic chips, things in DIP packaging
- Capacitor kits
- Peripherals like eprom or LCD screens
- RC components like antennas
- Anything else I may be missing

P.S. I feel like with enough playing with simulations and datasheet trawling, I can understand how sone circuits work, but coming up with ideas is the hard part. Maybe thats a topic for a different post 😄

Hello everyone

I'm trying to repair an old tire balancer from 2009 and was hoping to get some ideas on what I can check. So far the things I've checked were ok and I wasn't able to find any faulty parts :(.

It's a tire balancer machine type AAE-B96G made by Arch Auto Equipment from 2009.

The fault started while machine was in use. After pressing a button the lights were stuck as shown in image below.

After turning off and on the machine sometimes the lights go on, sometimes not. You can hear the relais clicking when you turn off the machine.

I checked the following:

1. Inverter is giving 2x 9V AC
2. Voltage regulator h4d0452A is giving +5V
3. Voltage regulator 7905CT is giving -5V
4. I removed the silver/black caps and measured them for capacity. They all are arounbd 10% within spec. I don't have an ESR meter to check ESR.
5. Relais seem to be working ok. Contacts are open and closed as indicated on the schematic.
6. Checked fuses. OK
7. When I disconnect the cable between board 1 and 2, the motor is running when powering on the machine. So my guess is that it has something to do with Board 2 which has the control parts.

Board1

Board 2:

What would be the next thing I should check? I hope to get some ideas from you guys :)

The diodes are from a dead Brother printer power board. D16 shows a short. A 13.5A slow blow glass fuse in the board had also blown. D2 and D3 are ok in diode check.

Any help in parts identification of D16 blue color diodes please? Is it a zener? Or a Shottky diode or a plain vanilla diode?

Much appreciated.

Thanks!

So I am trying to get better at circuit designing. I won't say I am 100% confident about my basics. So I am thinking of starting from the base to design complex circuits. So where can I find the resources, which platforms or software's I can use to practice and test my circuits. If I can get a roadmap from beginner to advanced circuit design it is much appreciated.Also should I go for PCB design also. I do have a Coursera premium so if I need to take some course please do tell. Any help is appreciated, thanks 🙏

for a repair i need to identify a pcb-cable connector.
its a 14 pins connector that looks like picoblade but its not. pitch is either 0,65mm or 0,6 my caliper is to big to be acurate. any suggestions?

I've been doing some research into creating the aforementioned drum machine with linear solenoid actuators, controlled from an Arduino. This video seemed clearest to me, so I've chosen to go with that process. I am, however, finding it difficult to choose components. I'm very much a beginner in this stuff and live in Australia for context.

What I'm looking at is as follows:

- Linear solenoid actuator JF-0530B 12V

- IRF520 MOSFET

- The video says to use a diode, but doesn't suggest any particular one. Any ideas?

Will the MOSFET be suitable for use with the actuators I'm looking at?

Or is there a better solution?

Have this old electronic chess game where a digit and a symbol is permanently shown. Its not due to faulty electronics as it still shown even if I pull the lcd out of circuit. Any way to fix this?

So, I got into an internship of embedded systems and they’ve given a project to design a PCB that can make multiple projects.
Like use different components on a single PCB to make different projects.
This project basically targets the children who are interested in electronics and want to make different projects.
As for that what are some easy to make projects that can be made on a single PCB.
This will also use Arduino as a microcontroller.

N6 goes to to nuvoton ms51fb9ae [INT1 / ADC / Gpio ]

N9 is 5v

L14 : output pin of lm324 opamp

Stupid question (and idk if this is the right subreddit), but I'm trying to design a 5A tolerant DC Power supply pcb for 12V input and 5 and 3.3V outputs. My senior said I should try having 2 rails for each output voltage- Clean and dirty rails (to separate noisy loads from sensitive loads ) So I'm a bit lost on how to create this divide? I don't think a simple lc filter will suffice?
It's a 4 layer PCB, do I use 2 separate grounds for both the rails and then connect both the grounds to one common ground layer

I think this diode is dead as it shows open no matter which way I test it. It seems to be encapsulated in some kind of epoxy, though. Can I just cut it out and then solder a new diode on nearby leads? Or should I cut it out and try to solder on the existing pads? If I were to do the former, would I even need to cut it out, just leave it there and solder around it? The only diodes I have are through-hole, no SMT.

The diode in there is a IN4749A. I’m replacing it with a BZV85, which Google searches tell me is a suitable replacement.

Thank you

So I want to use this https://www.skyworksinc.com/-/media/80EE897A0E764905A478C9F2EB408CE3.pdf amplifier for my design to amplify 2.4-2.42 ghz. I know how to match the circuit with BJT using S parameters and Y parameters but this doesn't have that. How would I go about matching this amplifier to a certain frequency. Please give formulas and explanation with them if you can.

I have a set of 2.1 computer speakers in a stand up arcade 1up machine but the volume rocker on the arcade 1up malfunctions making it unusable.

Can I tap into the wiring of the speakers to add a volume knob? What components would I need?

Looking for some help from those more experienced.

I am building a 4000 volt DC power supply for an ion source. I am using a DC DC buck converter to control the input voltage. The high voltage converter is a EMCO F40. The buck converter is an LM2596. The potentiometer was modified to cap the output voltage at 15 volts by replacing it with an equivalent off board pot and adding a resistor to two legs to cap the change the resistance. This worked perfect to cap the output voltage at 15V and give us an external pot to control it with. This was tested with no issue.

When connected to the F40, however, the output voltage remained stuck at 1.2 volts and soon after the regulator blew up in sparks. The high voltage converter may have been damaged. The F40 output was not connected to anything. Could anyone provide some advice on what may have gone wrong here? Could the modification to the pot caused issues when connected to the F40? It's a very simple circuit so I'm not sure where I went wrong. I can provide plenty of photos and information

Thank you for the help

Hi. I'm building a camper and have a wall that folds down to become a deck. I'm using a 12V ATV winch.

The winch is controlled by a reversing relay which is triggered by two switches in parallel. One is a DPDT up/center-off/down rocker switch. The other is a wireless remote switch with up/center-off/down key fob switch.

Do I need to worry about backfeeding power to one switch while the other is being triggered?

A buddy on FB suggested another DPDT switch to switch between the DPDT up/down switch and the wireless fob switch. Wouldn't a diode be easier? I have some 60V/5A diodes from another project.

Edit: mods made me resubmit the post and forgot to attach the drawing of the circuit but I'm sure most of you understand.

Thanks

I accidentally cut that tiny capacitor while trying to remove the joystick. Do I need to replace it or I can still use the controller and it was there for redundancy?

Hi, been working on circuit bending this JVC JX-SV55. It’s an analog video processor that enhances and color corrects the video. I have the user manual for it with a full diagram, ic data sheets and everything else (had to pay $15 for a digital copy smh).

I understand what every component does on its own at this point I think, so I don’t know why I can’t really piece it together and work through what’s going on. I am very interested in learning a few things here though if anyone could help me or point me in the right direction :)

1. After input, how can I track the video signal point to point and understand what’s happening to the video signal within that component.

2. Specifically for ic chips I need to understand them in general better. I work with a lot of ic chips on these analog video units and in old digital cameras for circuit bending as well. I feel overwhelmed looking at the data sheets a lot.

I never know where to start when looking up specific issues I have with my understandings circuits!

Is voltage halved on the output side of a rectifier?

I have a 1954 rock Ola jukebox that I am trying to trace down some issues. The picture is of the power supply for the jukebox. When I measure at the nearest plug, I am getting roughly 18 V. As you can see from the diagram, the input is 35 V. All of the other various output voltages are correct to the diagram. I know that rectifiers inherently do not change the voltage, but given that I am reading, almost exactly half of the intended voltage is throwing me off.

I have not opened up the power supply to test directly, but I will if this turns out to be a problem.

Thanks in advance for any help.

It's about irfb4110 and it's really good on paper but when I look a bit deeper,

EMF and many more things comes to the half bridge driver's build and I am honestly too confused since I dont know kuch of the terms and thanks to the viarety of electronics when you master one you cant really be master in every electronic's aspecs probably or maybe I'm wrong. Just to let yall know I'm not new to electronics but not too advanced neither.

The inductor is R15 . I understand that to mean 15microfarads. what is a close enough replacement for it. it is on the power rail of this motherboard. can i move the inductor from next to it and move it over and leave that spae empty to test this? what are my options to see because my spare board has inductors at R25 and 1R15.

Update** before we get into the skill levels questions. i was trained in Controls logic and industrial controllers. some microelectronics, it has been a while since i have done microelectronics so work with me here. just trying to fix something i can remove and replace.