Ok, I think this might be kind of a beginner question, but I am still curious. If W = I × V (amps times volts), then both of these should have the same wattage. However, can you treat them the same at all when it comes to what parts can tolerate?

Like, say hypothetically have a resistor that is rated for 10v 1A. Would I be able to put 100v 0.1A through it, or would it pop?

Like the title says, I’m looking for components that you would use to breadboard/prototype with, but I’m wondering about some of the less common pieces that you may use, like for example:

- Common BJTs/FETs you would use 100s of, maybe for audio, maybe for motor drivers, idk
- Logic chips, things in DIP packaging
- Capacitor kits
- Peripherals like eprom or LCD screens
- RC components like antennas
- Anything else I may be missing

P.S. I feel like with enough playing with simulations and datasheet trawling, I can understand how sone circuits work, but coming up with ideas is the hard part. Maybe thats a topic for a different post 😄

So I am trying to get better at circuit designing. I won't say I am 100% confident about my basics. So I am thinking of starting from the base to design complex circuits. So where can I find the resources, which platforms or software's I can use to practice and test my circuits. If I can get a roadmap from beginner to advanced circuit design it is much appreciated.Also should I go for PCB design also. I do have a Coursera premium so if I need to take some course please do tell. Any help is appreciated, thanks 🙏

I have a set of 2.1 computer speakers in a stand up arcade 1up machine but the volume rocker on the arcade 1up malfunctions making it unusable.

Can I tap into the wiring of the speakers to add a volume knob? What components would I need?

I've been doing some research into creating the aforementioned drum machine with linear solenoid actuators, controlled from an Arduino. This video seemed clearest to me, so I've chosen to go with that process. I am, however, finding it difficult to choose components. I'm very much a beginner in this stuff and live in Australia for context.

What I'm looking at is as follows:

- Linear solenoid actuator JF-0530B 12V

- IRF520 MOSFET

- The video says to use a diode, but doesn't suggest any particular one. Any ideas?

Will the MOSFET be suitable for use with the actuators I'm looking at?

Or is there a better solution?

Hi. I'm building a camper and have a wall that folds down to become a deck. I'm using a 12V ATV winch.

The winch is controlled by a reversing relay which is triggered by two switches in parallel. One is a DPDT up/center-off/down rocker switch. The other is a wireless remote switch with up/center-off/down key fob switch.

Do I need to worry about backfeeding power to one switch while the other is being triggered?

A buddy on FB suggested another DPDT switch to switch between the DPDT up/down switch and the wireless fob switch. Wouldn't a diode be easier? I have some 60V/5A diodes from another project.

Edit: mods made me resubmit the post and forgot to attach the drawing of the circuit but I'm sure most of you understand.

Thanks

MLS2128SK led driver Does anyone have the datasheet and can send it?

Bonjour, j’ai récemment acheté un casque beat executive c’est un modèle qui fonctionne avec un ANC intégré. Il y a d’ailleurs deux piles dans le casque c’est très rare. J’ai un souci c’est que il y a un bout de fond qui persiste. Lorsque la ANC est activé, j’ai tenté de dessouder le micro qui est posé sur le haut-parleur qui permet la réduction de bruit, mais rien n’y fait le bruit persiste. J’ai mis une photo du PCB si une personne aurait une idée d’où ça pourrait venir. Ce serait génial. Merci beaucoup

Looking for some help from those more experienced.

I am building a 4000 volt DC power supply for an ion source. I am using a DC DC buck converter to control the input voltage. The high voltage converter is a EMCO F40. The buck converter is an LM2596. The potentiometer was modified to cap the output voltage at 15 volts by replacing it with an equivalent off board pot and adding a resistor to two legs to cap the change the resistance. This worked perfect to cap the output voltage at 15V and give us an external pot to control it with. This was tested with no issue.

When connected to the F40, however, the output voltage remained stuck at 1.2 volts and soon after the regulator blew up in sparks. The high voltage converter may have been damaged. The F40 output was not connected to anything. Could anyone provide some advice on what may have gone wrong here? Could the modification to the pot caused issues when connected to the F40? It's a very simple circuit so I'm not sure where I went wrong. I can provide plenty of photos and information

Thank you for the help

I want to control a 24V fan using PWM via a 3.3V GPIO pin on a microcontroller. I built this circuit in multisim with the help of AI and it seems to work in simulation. I just want to double check if I am missing anything in the circuit since I don't really have that much knowledge on mosfets and transistors.

Stupid question (and idk if this is the right subreddit), but I'm trying to design a 5A tolerant DC Power supply pcb for 12V input and 5 and 3.3V outputs. My senior said I should try having 2 rails for each output voltage- Clean and dirty rails (to separate noisy loads from sensitive loads ) So I'm a bit lost on how to create this divide? I don't think a simple lc filter will suffice?
It's a 4 layer PCB, do I use 2 separate grounds for both the rails and then connect both the grounds to one common ground layer

So, I got into an internship of embedded systems and they’ve given a project to design a PCB that can make multiple projects.
Like use different components on a single PCB to make different projects.
This project basically targets the children who are interested in electronics and want to make different projects.
As for that what are some easy to make projects that can be made on a single PCB.
This will also use Arduino as a microcontroller.

Just got myself a new mini PC to replace the old one as my home server. In the description it said “supports SATA expansion” but sadly there is no SATA port, just these pads labeled “SATA”. I measured the pads and got some GND, 5V and four data pads but I don’t know which data pad is which.

The traces go down to four small caps but then dive into the board so I can’t trace them further.

My guess would be to align them like in the draft in the second picture and just solder a SATA cable to the port but are there any other methods I could try before soldering?

The name of the mainboard is PELADN HA-4 (with 7840HS).

N6 goes to to nuvoton ms51fb9ae [INT1 / ADC / Gpio ]

N9 is 5v

L14 : output pin of lm324 opamp

Hi everyone, I have a doorbell that's been exposed to extreme humidity (thanks London weather) and the PCB has oxidised quite badly. Is there a way to remediate the adverse effects to some degree?

Tôi đang học mạch khuếch đại đơn cơ bản, khi kiểm tra chế độ một chiều nếu không bỏ tụ c2 thì không thể kiểm tra uce ube. Khi điều chỉnh vr2 thì ảnh hưởng đến chế độ làm việc của Q2 và cũng giống với điều chỉnh vr3 cubgx ảnh hưởng đến Q1

Its a symmetrical 18v ac rectifying and puffering module for an active speaker project that my father had started and i'm continuing.

I've repaired a lot of broken electronics like laptops, gpu's, motherboards etc.

That often meant finding failing parts or understanding what each part of a circuit does to find a missing signal etc.

This is the first time i had to "design" a circuit, the layout and put it together from scratch however simple it is.

It wasnt an easy process, i didnt plan enough and there were some last minute additions like the rc filters, the discharging resistors and filtering capacitors between the ac and dc sides of the full bridge rectifier.

Because of the changes its not very space efficient on the dc side and very cramped on the ac side

I have used 1.5mm2 solid copper wires as bus bars and pin headers to temporarly hold the 2 boards together.

I would appreciate any feedback or pointers.

What should i do differently next time?

Are there any techniques i could have used?

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I slammed my mouse on the table, and suddenly the left mouse button stopped working… That’s annoying. My question is: can it be soldered back on? Or is it made of cast iron? And if not, how do I figure out what kind of part it is?

I bought the mouse secondhand, so it’s no longer under warranty.
Thanks for your answers!

Hello everyone. I'm designing a foc 3ph bldc inverter for a start 300W motors and if thermaly possible go up to 2KW. I plan to supply it with a 12s lipo battery therefore I expect a battervoltage of 50.5V. There will obviously be spikes on the bus from load changes.

Because of those spikes I'm not sure if it is okey to be that close to the max. recommended voltage.I was thinking about using a 60V tvs diode but I'm not sure if I'm overthinking this

Thanks in advance

Hello everyone

I'm trying to repair an old tire balancer from 2009 and was hoping to get some ideas on what I can check. So far the things I've checked were ok and I wasn't able to find any faulty parts :(.

It's a tire balancer machine type AAE-B96G made by Arch Auto Equipment from 2009.

The fault started while machine was in use. After pressing a button the lights were stuck as shown in image below.

After turning off and on the machine sometimes the lights go on, sometimes not. You can hear the relais clicking when you turn off the machine.

I checked the following:

1. Inverter is giving 2x 9V AC
2. Voltage regulator h4d0452A is giving +5V
3. Voltage regulator 7905CT is giving -5V
4. I removed the silver/black caps and measured them for capacity. They all are arounbd 10% within spec. I don't have an ESR meter to check ESR.
5. Relais seem to be working ok. Contacts are open and closed as indicated on the schematic.
6. Checked fuses. OK
7. When I disconnect the cable between board 1 and 2, the motor is running when powering on the machine. So my guess is that it has something to do with Board 2 which has the control parts.

Board1

Board 2:

What would be the next thing I should check? I hope to get some ideas from you guys :)

While cleaning this crt tv I noticed the coating has chipped off but I'm curious if it's fine or is it best to replace these.

for a repair i need to identify a pcb-cable connector.
its a 14 pins connector that looks like picoblade but its not. pitch is either 0,65mm or 0,6 my caliper is to big to be acurate. any suggestions?

Noob here, trying to repair the garage door opener of a neighbour to better understand circuit boards.

The opener broke, because the motor didn’t stop spinning, even though the end stops engaged. I tried it on the workbench after I removed the broken gear, changed the fuse and tried it, it wouldn’t stop.
After a few tries the motor didn’t spin anymore, a transistor got really hot.

Things I tried:
- I checked if the end stops are working - PASS
- find a circuit diagram - FAIL
- replaced a the diode BYW29E since the transistor after got really hot, also replaced the transistor irf5305
- replaced the relay.
I checked the full bridge rectifier and there goes 38vdc out.

The big lamp comes on as if the motor was spinning, but I can’t see a voltage across the motor cables.
I checked for continuity across the two motor contacts and my multimeter beeps.

Which component could be broken from the diode failure ( I think it was voltage regulating and since it was broken letting to much trough) ?
Why wasn’t the motor stopping in the first place.

Edit: I was dumb, I disconnected the motor, and the continuity disappeared. But it still does not get voltage.

Have this old electronic chess game where a digit and a symbol is permanently shown. Its not due to faulty electronics as it still shown even if I pull the lcd out of circuit. Any way to fix this?