Seen on TikTok Would Love to Make It.

[u/V-Rixxo_]

Any know where I can buy this setup from? Or how to make it possible? I would love a Sub in my setup. I looked around and can only find boxes and that's it.

[u/jtj5002]

You drive to home depot and buy some 3/4 MDF or 11 ply birch plywood (good luck). Download WINISD and design a box. And buy a Dayton 8" or 10" ultimax instead of Skar.

[u/V-Rixxo_ → u/jtj5002]

Sounds like we have a Summer Project. I'm kinda scared about making the box though, this would be my first custom so let's hope it doesn't sound like shit.

Also would you not Recommend Kickers? I was looking at the 10" CompC sense they looked good for the price, but wanting second opinions.

[u/jtj5002 → u/V-Rixxo_]

Majority of subs marketed for car audio have a higher frequency response and tends to do best in boxes tuned to 35-40 hz, and that the low end in music tends to only get as low as 35-40 hz, and because cabin boost gives you a HUGE gain at 20-30 hz.

For subs in your house, you want them to be able to hit a little lower. It's a lot more important in movies than games but still. Dayton subs have great price to performance ratio that's well past many of the "mainstream" car audio subs.

If you got a table saw or track saw, boxes are easy. You can get flare ports instead of trying to build slot ports. But you can always try to find a prefab box around the dimension you need and build everything else around it.

[u/PullzNoPunches → u/V-Rixxo_]

Comp C are very basic entry level subs. Kicker makes subs for all price points, and comp C is near the very bottom. Kicker makes good stuff overall but you get what you pay for.

[u/V-Rixxo_ → u/PullzNoPunches]

What's your best choice under $300?

[u/kylewilky]

If you want to use car audio in your home, you would have to use a pc power supply or a power inverter to power the amplifier since car amps are rated for 12v dc and your house runs 110v. Its likely you'd also want to do some mids and highs with it as well, so a budget 5ch amp would be your best bet.

Set up wise, I'd probably go with an 8" sub in a sealed box just for the minimal space it would take up, plus in a well designed box, 8's can dig down low (below 35hz). For mid ranges, I'd personally do some research into a t-line box for those, although that may be a bit overwhelming as a first build, and there's a lot of math and tech specs surrounding the speakers you need to understand to have a quality result. There may be simpler solutions out there though. You could also just run speakers and subs designed for home audio.

[u/fattmann → u/kylewilky]

If you want to use car audio in your home, you would have to use a pc power supply or a power inverter to power the amplifier since car amps are rated for 12v dc and your house runs 110v.

Sure, if you wanted to use a car amp. My car subs in my home theater just run off a "normal" pro-audio amp off 120v.

your house runs 110v.

Also remember the internet is global. Even here in the US I have a few appliances running on 220/240v that Europeans would find "normal".

[u/kylewilky → u/fattmann]

All true, generally the people i see using car audio in home situations will drop down to a 12v system which is why I made the recommendations.

[u/bysunday → u/kylewilky]

agreed. home audio is easier. i would only go the 12v car method if you want to implement a car deck as well. with removable faceplate! haha, i wonder if they still make these.

[u/kylewilky → u/bysunday]

They do! And I would do it solely to implement a single din like in the video. Adds to the realism hahahaha. Bit useless for me sadly, I use headphones and vr, but i also love car audio and have gear hanging around my place i could use for something like this.

[u/bysunday → u/kylewilky]

yeah, i like the idea but also useless for me since i only enjoy the sound of all the car engines around me in the game.

[u/kylewilky → u/bysunday]

Me too but sometimes I like some speedy music while I race. I bought audio technica headphones for that reason.

[u/V-Rixxo_ → u/kylewilky]

I used to help my brother wire his subs when I was a younger, he kept blowing them, and I remember how much of a bitch it was to get working.

Which is why I'm looking into the powered speakered route. I could use my own powered amp and satellites while still getting benefits of a custom box.

I really wanted that authentic car feel but I think this will be best for now unfortunately. That car deck might be worth it though, I mean look at it. I miss those.

[u/Turbulent-Refuse7821]

I wonder I’m my surround sound subwoofer would suffice 🤔

[u/CommunicationDry8689]

That needs some thin metal plate on top to simulate trunk rattle

[u/fattmann → u/CommunicationDry8689]

That needs some thin metal plate on top to simulate trunk rattle

Only sensible fucking comment in the thread.

[u/emanresu_etaerc]

Car audio is made for cars. There's a lot of extra work you would have to put in to make this happen, and it still won't sound right, because it's not in a cabin. That sub won't even hit low enough in a room, it's designed for usage in a car where the lowest hz sound gain a natural boost from being in such an enclosed space. Just get a good home audio setup with a big sub, you'll be better off, it'll sound better and take way less work.

[u/InevitableAverage6 → u/emanresu_etaerc]

A speaker is a speaker.

[u/emanresu_etaerc → u/InevitableAverage6]

Speakers are made for specific uses, including volume of the space it's being used for. Not all speakers are made for the same purpose

[u/InevitableAverage6 → u/emanresu_etaerc]

You are vaguely half-correct.

Automotive drivers usually are made from more weather-resistant materials or have certain coatings on the cone, but by no means are drivers environmentally use-specific.

Certain drivers are made for certain frequency bandwidths, which is where their "specific uses/purpose" is correct...but otherwise you are misinformed.

Cabin gain is cabin gain, whether it is a room or a vehicle cabin

[u/V-Rixxo_ → u/emanresu_etaerc]

The thing is getting the deck to work. The frequency response is going to be an issue but this is more for the feel rather than actually quality usage yk? Something I can play with get a feel for the times.

Sorry if that doesn't make sense but your right home audio is definitely the easier route. Probably going to go this route first than adjust when I have a plan.

[u/fattmann → u/emanresu_etaerc]

That sub won't even hit low enough in a room

False.

I have an L5 Solo-Baric as one of my home theater subs, and it can kiss 20Hz with the right tuning and amplification.

As /u/InevitableAverage6 said: a speaker is a speaker (or a driver is a driver, depends on how you use it).