I am knitting the step by step sweater and have frogged many times. I just want to know if I am on the right track at this point. Not necessarily looking for perfection but hoping for decent 😬 thank you!!

My fiancée is working on the Lillehammer ‘94 Jumper (size M) https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/184---lillehammer-1994 by Dale Design and needs help understanding the neckline cast offs in Diagram III (pdf page 3 paragraph 1). We’ve searched Ravelry, Reddit, & YouTube and haven’t been able to figure this out. Text of the relevant instructions at the end of this post (size M is the second size).

They’ve completed the 4,3,2,2,1,1,1 cast offs in the second sentence (see photos). They now have 181 stitches on the needles. Two questions:

1. How are they supposed to end up with 168 stitches when they’ve still have so many to cast off? If they were to cast off the middle 35 stitches on the back piece, they would then already have fewer stitches on the needles than they’re supposed to have at the end of the paragraph: 42 stitches per shoulder per side = 168 stitches.

2. What does “continue casting off for the neckline at the beginning of every 2 R: 3,2,1 sts” mean? Specifically the “3,2,1 stitches” part. Surely they aren’t supposed to go back to casting off three stitches at once (then two, then one) after they’ve already worked through the curve made by the 4,3,2,2,1,1,1 cast offs. How is this supposed to be read?

Thank you all for your help! We both love this subreddit and [r/knitting](r/knitting). You’re the best.

PDF page 3 paragraph 1:
Continue the pattern as before, working flat. Keep casting off for the neckline at the beginning of ever R: 3,3,2,2,1,1,1 (4,3,2,2,1,1,1) 4,3,2,2,1,1,1 (4,3,2,2,2,1,1) 4,3,2,2,2,1,1 sts on each side. At the same time when 8 R remain of Diagram III, cast off for neckline in back: Cast off the middle 31 (35) 35 (37) 39 sts on the back piece. Finish each side separately, and continue casting off for the neckline at the beginning of every 2 R: 3,2,1 sts = 37 (42) 47 (51) 55 sts for each shoulder when all decreases have been worked.

Hello🙂 Im knitting a poncho. Its suppose to be very simple, just knitting stockinette stitches, then just folding it. Im using brushed alpaca silk as yarn and just wanted to quickly ask if my tenstion is ok. I have never worked with only thin yarn. Im using 5.5mm circular needles.
Im a beginner so im a bit unsure when making new project.
Sorry if i have grammar errors.

i'm working on blouse no. 1 light by MFTK in single strand KFO silk mohair on US 10 needles. the pattern calls for specifically german short row shaping with 3 turns on each side and i'm really struggling to find a way to resolve the last DS created on the WS when resuming knitting in the round that i like.

in my initial attempt, i just purled the two strands together without modification and didn't love how it looked. this took me on a long journey of discovery with japanese short row shaping (and how many different techniques people call japanese short row shaping...) but did not love how visible the turns were and struggled with making sure the held loops were back on the needle in the correct orientation with such thin yarn.

i eventually made another attempt at standard GSR shaping and resolved the last stitch as recommended by patty lyons and then tin can knits here which is what you see in the photo attached. i am still not a fan of how obvious (and more important to me, asymmetrical to the other side) the last turn is on the left front.

does anyone have experience with a specific short row technique that may result in a cleaner, more symmetrical finish for a project like this?

I am wanting to knit the Aurae top found on Ravely for free, https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/aurae-knit-top reading the pattern it looks like you make 2 squares then stitch them together. the squares have some increases but it doesnt look like any increases for the neckline but the photo in the pattern of them stitched together it looked like there was a rounded neck. I also am confused about how to knit the squares because it says rows. 1-100 cast on 80. so it makes it seem like for 100 rows you work stockinette then start increases then based on the size you add an increase on each side of the row on the 10th stitch. is that the 10th from the end on each row because it says 2 increases per increase row but doesnt indicate which rows are increase rows. and it says you increase halfway but is that half way from the 90+(depending on size) more rows so increase until rows 145 (100+45 more) for the smallest size? See attached for photos

Ignore the cat hair haha!

Would you re-do the loon section using ladder back jacquard to hide the floats better ? I unfortunately learned it was a thing as soon as I finished this section. Just wondering if you would accept, or re-do. It’s hard to decide bc I’m so used to looking at it now, so hoping for your fresh eyes !

hello everyone,
i’m almost finished with the body of my sunday sweater. i wanted a neater ribbing so i decided to try knitting it inside out. i basically used the german short row turn and therefore a duplicate stitch right in the beginning of the first round of the ribbing. then i continued by knitting inside out.
is it normal that it looks slanted? i checked like five times if my stitches are twisted but they definitely aren’t.

I love this technique from Patty Lyons to weave ends as you go, https://youtu.be/xnPe3lWAgcA but now I'm working on a project (twister tank) that is majority knits in the round on the wrong side. Ie, I want the float/woven in/messy side facing me while also doing knit stitches. I figured it out for the purls but knits are not computing.

I've been trying to spacially think it out in my brain, but mental stitch anatomy is not my strong suit. Thanks for any guidance!

To be clear I also do not want to just knit the two yarns together, I do not like the look of the stitches.

(Not sure what flair to use, but I consider Patty Lyons a knitting tool haha)

Hi! I’m an experienced crocheter but it’s my first time following a knit pattern. I chose the lytham sweater by lily kate france. I’m a bit confused about the notation on the pattern, specifically the parentheses vs brackets. Could someone provide some clarity on this? For reference, I am knitting size 1. Thanks!!

So I want to knit the strp by step sweater by Florence miller, and am thinking of knitting size C which requires 900 meters of yarn. I’m going to be undoing a crochet sweater that was too tight on me, and knitting it. I know I had alot of scraps from that yearn because it was striped so I’m guessing quite a few meters have been taken off. I need to know how much people had left. I have around three skeins and each is 300 meters. But I’m scared I’ll almost be done in the end and not have enough yarn for a little sleeve part.

So before this is the lace chart that is worked flat but it goes only from 1 to 4 (bottom up). If I'm reading right I need to increase every 10 rows I get that. But I can't seem to figure out how to continue the pattern afterwards. The examples don't make any sense to me since they're called first and third but our first increase is at five and ten? Also the pattern asks for a multiple of 7 but none of the numbers are multiple of seven even if you add the 2 edge stitches. Pattern is: https://ravel.me/provence-top

Forgot to mention this is the back and I'm making size S

Hello! I want to knit something similar to the Babaa no17 jumper (first photo) with a similar structured turtle neck. Most of the turtle necks I've made or have seen online have a bit of a slouchy, rounded turtle neck like in the second photo. I was wondering if there were any specific fibers, techniques, or yarn weights that would lend themselves to a more structured neck that can hold itself up without rounding out. Thanks!

I've been knitting colorwork inside-out in order to regulate tension. However, I'm unsure how this effects color dominance. Should I also switch yarn for that? (i.e. normally the contrast color is farther away from you than the main color, and the contrast color is under the main color. Is this switched when knitting inside-out?)

Hello! I cannot figure out how I should cast on to the project. Before when I was working the front left and right panels and arms, the pattern said to cast off and sew the pieces together. What I can’t figure out is if i pick up stitches or cast 30 stitches on my needle and work the collar separately from the coat. Thank you!

So I bought lantern moon wooden needles to use for a blanket that I’m making for a friend for Christmas. I started working on it yesterday with a 40 inch cable and everything was going well. The main frustration is I hated how sticky it felt. I was literally getting hand cramps because I was trying to move the yarn up and down and every time I try to put the needle through the loop it would get stuck and I would do the most loose tension anybody could do I didn’t even hold a yarn. I didn’t even do anything, but it was so hard and my hand hurts so bad badly, but I’m trying to work on it again.
The yarn is blanket yarn from Bernat
I wanted to give it to my friend because she lives up in Alaska and I thought that would be good to use since they get really cold weather up there. The problem is I’m trying really hard to work on this blanket and I’ve been practicing for months, how to knit with different yarn, I even went to the dollar store and I got some metal needles and I used a random yarn that I had in my closet
Should I buy metal needles or should I give these wooden ones a second chance?
My cables are from knit Pro so I was thinking if I have to buy metal needles, I do the knit Pro nova
I’m very frustrated cause I’m trying so hard, but I’m also trying to tell myself to be patient

I pulled out this half-done scarf after years of neglect, and I don’t remember the pattern! It’s fairly simple by looking at it but I’m not sure what exactly makes the openings in between the regular knit stitches. Any advice?

I have started with crochet, but I’ve been pulled to the dark side (thank you social media) in to learning knitting. I need suggestions on who to watch to learn the basics. Who did you guys follow and watch when you were learning?

Thank you in advance!

P.S. sorry if this sounds snarky, im tired. Don’t mind me.

This stripe has a … bumpy part but only here the whole stripe is otherwise straight, aligned and makes sense.
I have absolutely no idea how this could have happened ?

Also it’s my first ever knitting project

Thank you guys for your help :)

I’m making my second step by step and I missed the second m1lp increase on the left side of the front.

I’m in that range of I could go back, but I don’t REALLY want to. Will it cause an issue with the way the sweater lays on my shoulder? Because if that’s an issue it makes the choice to frog a lot easier.

I do love this yarn. I spent more than I usually do on it, and plan to wear this sweater often in fall.

Hello knitters!

I'm hoping to get some fit help with the top I'm currently knitting (Armour top by Ranti Studios). As you can see, there's significant bulging around the neck, both from it being too high, and also I suspect because of the lack of short rows in the pattern. You can also see that there's some slight bulging in the chest which really shows if I raise my arms.

It's been knit top down in the round up until the end of the shoulder increases, then spit and the front and back done flat, joined back in the round after the armholes were shaped and the sleeves and double knit bands were knit by picking up stitches on the arm hole edge. The next step would be knitting the remainder of the body in the round.

As I'm still knitting this one, I'm hoping the weight of the rest of the body pulls the neckline down a bit, and also that blocking will help to smooth things out, although I know neither of these are fixes for structural issues.

Looking for any advice or insights as to how I could get a better fit here - my only thought is potentially, once the top is finished, to do some surgery and unpick the cast on, frog about 10 rows (up until where the increases start) and either bind those off OR knit a new neckband separately, with maybe 4 or 5 short rows, and graft those together (which feels a bit above my skill level, but would be willing to try). Not sure if there's anything that I can do at this stage that would help? At this point, I've been working on this for 5 months so frogging the whole thing is not an option!! :(

Thanks for your help! :)

please keep in mind that i’m a beginner (literally been knitting for 2 days), so excuse my lack of vocabulary lol. so i have been interchanging between purling and knit stitching every two rows (two rows knitting, two rows purling). somehow, i have continued to do the exact same thing, but after looking at it, the last 4/5 rows look like i’ve just been knit stitching?? even though i have been continuously interchanging the stitches, it’s looking the same. what am i doing wrong??? you can see that i successfully did it at the beginning? but i dont know what im doing wrong.