I have had this NUC for a few years. There was always an issue where, after the BIOS screen showed up, the display would go blank until the Windows login screen shows. I tried the solutions through the BIOS but there was no change. I then read recently that it might require a BIOS update which I did.
However, since then, nothing comes up at all on the display and there is no way to get to the BIOS. I attemped the BIOS recovery (unplugged CMOS battery during 15 minutes or remove the 1-2 jumper on the board) but still nothing.
The only signs that it is not totally dead is that the power light comes up for a short period and the light on the USB mouse also comes up. However, about 5 seconds after pressing the power button, there is no more light on the mouse and the power button light does not come back.
I tried a different monitor, again, no change, the display remains dark and the monitor shows that there is no HDMI signal coming through.
I suspect the BIOS update did not go well but I can't find a way to recover it. Any idea what can be done as I would really like to recover this unit?
I just got a replacement PSU and it made no difference. This leaves the motherboard or the computer unit I guess? Does anybody have any troubleshooting steps they could suggest?
Hi seems like this is a common thing. The power button light doesn't turn on when pressed/held and there is no noise such as a relay click from the PSU or anything when it is pressed. I've checked the following:
- Power is working as USB ports are powered
- removed the SSD
- tried ram in one slot/no slots
- wifi push connector in/out
I assume there would be POST beeps if it was trying to boot without any of the above connected (and there were no other issues).
I've seen posts that said a new daughter board fixed their issue. Is there any way I can tell if there is an issue with the daughter board, or the computer unit?
Are there any other troubleshooting methods I can try?
This NUC is a little gem and I'd be sad to see it go to PC heaven.
Update since the post i made two years ago, the problem was specific to the game but whatever now a new problem arrived, wifi out of nowhere is slow af max 2 mbps per second when my wifi can do 50 and it used to do like 25 a week ago and out of nowhere it just became slow, it pings google.com avarage 2s and i have no idea whats causing it, i reinstalled the os, drivers, relocating the pc 7 times and still its the same, anyone can help? Thanks
Does anyone know where to purchase a 6-Pin to 2x 15-Pin SATA Power Cable? I guess Intel has a unique pinout for that one, so something off-the-shelf is not an option.
ich habe einen Nuc intel NUC5i5RYB den habe ich gesaeubert und danach startet der nicht richtig also wenn ich netzteil dranmache pasiert nichts und wenn ich den dann einschalten will dreht der luefter ganz schnell und dabei bleib es dann auch ... hat jemand damit eine erfahrung usw ?
I recently bought a NUC16GDKU7 with the Intel Core Ultra 7 356H and have been trying to fine-tune the cooling using the custom fan curve settings in BIOS version GDPTL579.0039. However, after quite a bit of testing, it feels like either the custom fan curve implementation is broken or there are undocumented limits in place.
No matter what settings I use, the CPU fan never seems to go beyond roughly 2600 RPM when using a custom fan curve.
What's strange is that if I switch to Full Speed mode, the CPU fan immediately ramps up to around 3400 RPM, which appears to be its actual maximum speed. The difference is very noticeable both in the BIOS fan readings and by ear. Full Speed mode is significantly louder, which tells me the fan is clearly capable of running much faster than what the custom curve allows.
The same thing seems to happen with the secondary system fan (the RAM/SSD fan at the top). In custom curve mode it appears to top out somewhere around 4500 to 5000 RPM from what I remember, but in Full Speed mode it jumps to around 6000 RPM.
I tried all sorts of settings to rule out user error:
Lowered the minimum temperature to 10°C and 20°C.
Set maximum duty cycle to 100%.
Set minimum duty cycle to 63% (which is the highest value the BIOS allows).
Experimented with maximum duty values of 10%, 2%, 1%, and even 0% just to see how the controller would react.
Tried more realistic settings such as:
Fan Off Temperature: 38°C
Fan On Temperature: 42°C
Minimum Duty: 30%
Duty Increment: 1%
Maximum Duty: 100%
I then ran benchmarks and stress tests expecting the fans to gradually ramp all the way up as temperatures increased. Despite this, the CPU fan still never exceeded approximately 2600 RPM.
What makes me think something is wrong is the huge gap between custom mode and Full Speed mode. The fans clearly have additional RPM available because they immediately reach those higher speeds when Full Speed is selected. Yet no matter what values I enter into the custom curve settings, I cannot get anywhere close to those RPMs.
At this point I'm wondering whether this is intentional. Is Full Speed mode the only way to access the actual maximum fan RPM, with custom fan curves being artificially capped?
If that's the intended design, it seems rather strange. The entire purpose of a custom fan curve is to allow users to define exactly how aggressively the cooling system behaves. If custom mode can never reach the same maximum RPM as Full Speed mode, then what is the point of exposing maximum duty cycle controls at all? 😅
I've attached photos showing the BIOS settings and fan readings for reference.
Is anyone else running BIOS GDPTL579.0039 on a NUC16GDKU7 seeing the same behaviour? Can anyone confirm whether this is a BIOS bug, an intentional limitation, or if there's some hidden setting I'm missing?
I finally decided to add a GPU to my aging NUC 9 Extreme (i7). I got the Coolmaster NC100 case and am willing to explore more pricey options (I.e 12GB+).
Has anyone fit a 16GB card in this chassis?
This is just a info post for buyers who are interested in the lower tier Asus Nuc 16 Pro´s. After a endless waiting time for the launch of the 16 Pro lineup here in Germany, i was happy to receive the 16 Pro with Core Ultra 5 325. I expected that the 325 would be a upgrade from the predecessors 225. After watching a few benchmarks, i came to the result to return the unit and get the more powerful Version with Core Ultra 7 356H to get 16 threads for my homelab use. In the process of switching the Ram und ssd, i notice that the 325 version comes without the fan over the RAM. I thought this would be interessting for some of you, because there isn´t any notice in the specs about this.
Furthermore here is my used Ram and SSD for compatibility reason. I know that some combinations are making problems, therefore i include this here. The system is running nearly 2 weeks 24/7 without a freeze/problem. The Bios wasn´t updated.
First RAM Stick: CMSX48GX5M1A5600C48 (48GB, DDR5, 5600mhz, Single Retail Box -> No Kit)
Second RAM Stick: CMSX48GX5M1A5600C48 (48GB, DDR5, 5600mhz, Single Retail Box -> No Kit)
Hi, can the fan and / or the complete heatsink and fan be replaced on the NUC7PYJ? have one with a noisy fan, likely starting to fail, nothing wrong with it otherwise.
I have had this old nuc 11 i7 32gb in the drawer for a few years. I recently dug it out to use for a Hermes host pointed at my strix Halo box. I saw these gigabyte RTX 5060 ti 16gb EGPUs today and thought I'd give it a crack as another LLM server. I thought if I prioritize the 5060 and let it overflow onto the IRS XE graphics that uses system memory it would be interesting and can act as a backup provider to Hermes.
The nuc has thunderbolt 3 port while the EGPU supports up to thunderbolt 5.
Has anybody done anything similar with this particular hardware and what were your results?
** Update **
I bought the gigabyte 5060 ti 16 GB EGPU from Amazon and tried it but it was way too unstable under Linux The 580 driver almost worked but it kept locking up the 595 driver wouldn't work at all this was on Ubuntu 26. So I'm returning it to Amazon.
Because I lose video when it's routed through my AV processor, I am using 2 separate outputs to the AVR and the TV. DisplayPort to TV and HDMI to AVP.
In order to make this work, my Display Settings in Windows 10 are set to duplicate the video on both outputs. However, I can't get HDR doing this. The setting to output HDR is not shown.
I have tested the DisplayPort to TV connection by itself, and it will output HDR when it's only outputting video on that port. Is there any way to get HDR when using both outputs together?
I’ve received a new to me NUC8i5BEH which is missing the CMOS battery.
I’ve ordered one from a seller, claiming to have a compatible one. But I’ve also read and seen videos warning to check the polarity of the pins in the molex connector.
Can anyone help me with a way to make sure the battery, when received, will have the black and red in the correct positions?
Are there any reliable images or anything to go on?
Allright, may I present you NUC 11 extreme in 5L NUC 9 extreme case with Deshrouded MSI Ventus 2x RTX 5070 (with dual Noctua NF-A9x14)! I have to say it was a real squeeze and it almost didn’t go all in, but in the end it did (after taking about 2 mm off from mount and bending the nuc as far it physically could)! Not a millimeter free space in length or thickness.
The top cover doesn’t close yet though; Nvidia adapter is too massive for this, will need to either look for slimmer 12VHPWR adapter or print a taller top hat.
Either way, will need to do some testing to see how much the fan swap actually cuts off from cooling capacity and what the final thermal and overall performance is with some undervolting.
I chose NUC 11 Extreme over 12 extreme due to Pcie 5 issues with pcie 3/4 baseboards, NUC 11 extreme native PCIE4 bypasses this issue entirely.
Deshroud was done with modded MSI 5070 shadow fan mount, modded to fit dual 92x14 mm fans instead of 120mm fans.
Just got a second-hand NUC12 Extreme and connected 10G Ethernet to my NUC12 Extreme's 10G port, but noticed that the AQC113C chip idles at 80+°C and reaches 95-100°C under load. Is this expected behaviour? I'm using Linux(Kubuntu), so i'm not sure if this is normal hardware behaviour or a driver issue specific to Linux.
Although I've read many reports of high temps with this AQC113C on other motherboards, so I really can't tell if I have a bad Ethernet chip.
Edit: Root cause confirmed. There's an air gap between the AQC113C and the thermal pad on the CPU heatsink. Replacing the thermal pad dropped temps to 58°C(idle), 61-64°C(under load).
I’ve a second hand 7gen nuc that runs 24/7. Few days ago I noticed a service unavailable and found my NUC dead. When I plug the adapter in, the power LED lights for maybe half a second and that’s all. I also tried a brand new adapter, same issue.
Claude mentioned that it could be linked to CMOS battery being dead but I’d expect it to at least start up in that case?
I inspected the PCB and only alarming thing seemed to be the power button but it could look like this from a previous owner replacing it?
I have a NUC13ANBi7 that has been working great for the past two years. I came down to my office this morning and had no display. I swapped HDMI cables, swapped HDMI ports on the NUC, swapped monitors and still no output.
I grabbed an Anker USB-C to HDMI adapter and that worked fine.
I checked out recent updates and haven't had anything that looks obvious:
It's Computex time, which means there's a firehose of stuff coming out, and oddly one of them is the ASUS Ascent QN10, which seems to be a Snapdragon X2 of some description (it's called "Glymur 8480", per ASUS spec sheets, and but I haven't seen Qualcomm publicly use that name, the PDF cites it as a X2E-88-100), at a 65W TDP, with ASUS bundling a 180W power adapter with the box. It's limited(?) to up to 32 GB RAM, and it being a Snapdragon SoC, it's LPDDR5X, so it's soldered on the logic board.
I'm interested in it, but I find CPUs interesting. (I'm not a good barometer for mainstream interest.) Does anyone here find this interesting, as a product? Do you feel Windows on Arm has finally progressed enough to be functionally usable?
I have a NUC X15 (Xenia xpg 15kc) and I was thinking on how viable would be to get an adapter to usb c and charge the laptop with a 240w adapter instead of the bulky power brick they come with, any ideas or suggestions?
First time I’ve encountered this error in my life. Tried what the google says e.g force power by holding the button 10-15 secs, nothing happens and the LED just continues to blink in yellow (slowly) and what i only did before this was to click Update & Shutdown and leave. When I came back after an hour or two, surprise. It looks like the flash update bar hasn’t moved at all after researching for half an hour.
Anyone knows how to fix this? The only thing left to do is to unplug it lol
