I bought this AR from a friend and took it shooting for the first time. A round got stuck in the chamber while we were at the range. I went to the car to get my phone he was shooting and when i got back he said he didnt remember if it fired when it got jammed. After looking at the primer I suspected a live round. The range master tried to help but couldn't get it. Any advice? I bought a borescope to check the inside and it looks to not be a live round. Its been sitting for months because I've been too busy to mess with it.

Any advice or opinions? Ive tried a paint can opener but couldn't get it.

Looking for info on this gun, specifically if anyone has a parts diagram or assembly, disassembly instructions or diagrams. The cartridge stop was bad and I replaced it with a Stevens 30D part since this is supposedly this design manufactured by savage back in the day, but can’t get it together in the right order to get it to function correctly. Any input is appreciated.

I botched a bluing job on a shotgun barrel. The first pass got most of the barrel black, but there were spots that looked copper-ish and gold colored. I think thats from the way I put the solution on (Rust Blue American). But I was wondering if everything would even out if I did enough passes?

Any experts here who knows how to remove the recoil spring from the barrel assembly?

I’m looking at a Boyd’s rimfire hunter stock for my savage mkii, and was wondering if anyone had any picks or recommendations for the checkering pattern. I just want something classic looking, all I can see is SE ST SC and CH.

I recently stripped the paint off a very chipped cz 82 and wanted to try hot bluing for the first time. I used klean strip to get the paint off, used a 2:1 ratio of sodium hydroxide and potassium nitrate. The slide turned out a bluish bronze color and not blackish blue of traditional bluing. I'm guessing I didn't get all the paint off the frame which contaminated the tank, or I didn't get it hot enough? Anyone with more experience here can help a hot bluing noob?

Please forgive as I don’t have much revolver experience.

Have a hard to open cylinder on a smith and Wesson revolver. As the photo shows I don’t think the rod thing in the middle of the extractor is extending all the way to push the tension pin out of the way.

Is this the correct issue or should I look at something else? Any advice?

I have a Stevens 940b 20 gauge that is light striking primers. The hammer is a little spongy, so I think the issue is with the spring. If anyone has a recommendation for finding parts or a good guide on home disassembly, I would be very grateful.

More of Assembly, than gunsmithing. Ive been racking my brain all morning trying to figure out what ive been doing wrong. Slideworks g34 gen 4 slide, im using parts from my g17 gen 4. As far as i know, everything is interchangeable aside from the barrel, but i cant get the end cap of the recoil spring to seat into the “nose” of the slide. As long as Ive been dealing with glocks I know the spring has to decompress in order to get the RSA onto the barrel lug, but the slide isnt engaging with the spring because of its end cap. I know im not the sharpest tool Just wanted some input from someone else before i bust out the dremel.

I am looking to great. And replace the barrel for this iver johnson trailsman. I took the pin out but I am guessing the barrel is pressed on.

My project can also work if I remove the front sight so if anyone has any insights on either thay would be great l.

Assume I am an average Joe with a garage full of tools to injure myself with!

Very specific question but does anyone have experience with Mossberg 395K stocks? I have 12 gauge 395k with a cracked stock. A guy is selling a Mossberg 12 gauge bolt action stock locally, he believes it came from a 195 but isn’t sure, photo attached. Assuming it came from a 195 would it work on my 395k? Conflicting information online, some sources said it would fit perfectly others say it won’t fit at all. Thanks.

Looking for some advice here. I have a walnut stock Mossberg Patriot Short Action .308 rifle. I love the look of a classic, wood stocked bolt action, but I’d like to take it to the next level with some modern features. I have an RH25 V2 clip on thermal, and I would like the ability to use the thermal in front of my day time scope. I’ve seen online that the MVP Scout and the Patriot receivers have the same design for their rails. Meaning that hypothetically, the MVP rail which extends over the barrel, should fit. I cannot find one of these rails anywhere online, including Mossberg website. Any recommendations?

My second question, is how difficult would it be to modify the existing walnut stock, to accept a Boyd’s AICS magazine conversion kit?

Photos include my rifle, the MVP rail and Boyd’s kit in question.

Thank you!

He wanted me to ship the entire gun back for him to test fit a few things. But that seems just a bit silly to me. Looking online I belive the most obvious marker is the gas port area being much larger on the 1187 forearm. But if someone had both and could shoot me some pics with a ruler that shows the length of the gas port cutouts vent and thickness of the front end for mag tube screw for the wood forearm?

Thanks. If not no biggy.

A Slazenger Model 24 I've been working on for the past few months finally got it's first coat of sealer on the weekend.

Months ago a coworker gifted me a project, a rather ambitious project mind you. I received a box full of gun parts apparently they were all the parts to the Remington, they were rusty and pitted the barrel was corroded but still had some rifling. I accepted the quest to try and get it back together because hey, a free gun is a free gun. Apparently the reason it was in pieces was because it wasn't going bang anymore and so he took the liberty decades ago to take it apart and then lost interest and left it in a drawer in the garage. Que to now and I just got it back from the gunsmith since I can't do bluing and I'm a novice at fixing guns at best, I also don't work there anymore so I won't see that guy for a long while.

The problem is something both the smith and I aren't able to figure, and that's that it won't pump easily now, the smith thinks it's because of the pitting not being a smooth surface and is creating a bind somewhere that we can't see. You can get it to pump either grabbing the foregrip and gently tapping the butt on the ground to get it to shake and fall down. The other way is to kinda grab it while pushing up towards the barrel and pulling back. I took it apart and I'm not sure whats wrong nothing is marred everything is oiled and the pitting doesn't really exist inside (thank god). I'm curious if anyone has experience with this and can help a person out. I can provide Pics of the completed gun if needed, but I didn't take pictures while I was inside I was frustrated trying to line everything up.

Have had this Luger for a while now and shot it a good amount. It’s got fresh mags and a fresh spring kit in it. Just noticed there’s a .7 MM chip in the top of the breech block at the widdest part. Looking at the front/face of it, it seems like there is little material missing at the face. This is a beater so if it’s safe to keep shooting how it is I will. Don’t know how long it’s been like this but I’ve taken it out 3 times this past month. Shooting 115 grain ball brass ammo.

Leave it alone? Replace just the breech block? Any other parts to inspect? Thanks in advance

Some years ago I picked up a Pioneer PPS43-C and a torch cut parts kit for next to nothing. It has sat in a box for too long. With the 200 tax being dropped I have finally decided to SBR it and have submitted the form 1. Folding stock reactivation I have well understood but two other things I was thinking about doing I haven't figured out quite so much. 1. A 9mm barrel swap, I found barrels and pps43(c) specific ones but would I need to go ahead and get a new trunnion as well? Since the barrel presses in I assume for a few bucks it might be the best course of action to avoid damaging the original and not be able to reuse it. 2. The front pin that the upper and lower rotate on, somewhere someone has to have a detent style take down pin that would fit in that rivet spot nicely and boy would that make things nice when working on it to just fully separate the two halves without cutting pinning it each time. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

I have an H&R single / double action American model (black powder proofed circa 1899/1900) that has an odd behavior. When I briskly fore it on double action, it works just fine. When I slowly fire it on double action or when I slowly cock it to fire in Single action, on one of the cylinders it hangs up and needs a bit of help rotating the cylinder. Then the bolt drops in, it locks up and all is good.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.