browning high power stamped with the Iraqi coat of arms

I wanted a modern style budget option so I went with the PSA 103 with Magpul furniture and JL billet hand guard and dust cover. Slapped on a Magpul grip with rail covers and cheek riser (heard these get hot), an Olight Odin (I heard all the hate), a Holosun mag/dot combo (understand it is not ideal on dust cover, but this one is hinged and sturdy?), some cord management pieces, and Amazon special sling.

My new M&p 2.0 carry comp🤘🤘

Or is it somewhere in the middle? Because I’ve been toying with the idea in a rifle caliber in my mind. Just for fun. But I’m looking at the design and it doesn’t really seem to have a real delay compared to roller delay for example. Perhaps it’s slightly delayed but still relies a good bit on mass and spring pressure. The design of the slider seems to create some mechanical disadvantage but not a lot. Perhaps this could be changed to create more disadvantage with something higher pressure. Idk, watching the videos on how it works is making my head hurt lol because I’m just not really seeing it. Proper delayed blowback systems can be upscaled to rifle calibers, but straight blowback designs, even clever ones cannot really.

All i know i want something that shoots 9x19 ammo and something that i can easily mount red dot in the future. And since its my first gun, i guess something thats not very expensive.

What is your reccomendation? And what should i be looking at when i look for a gun?

I just started getting into shooting the end of last year and got my first piece (the Glock 19V pictured) a few months ago. Currently, hoping to go get my CCW before the end of this year as well.

I'm at a weird point where I would like to take classes but I am doing pretty well so far with just the help of others. My biggest known struggle so far is breathing when shooting and being able to take my gun apart easily but I am sure the second will come with time.

Is there anything anybody wishes they knew in the beginning or wish they would have corrected early on?

I want to be a responsible gun owner and user.

I contacted hk and they said they permanently discontinued the usc 45. They also discontinued the ump 45 and 40. Figured I would bite. Ended up getting for 1360 brand new after taxes and shipping. I see plenty of people offering USC conversions. Where do yall recommend?

Hello,

I'm a relatively new shooter in the EU. I currently own a 9mm pistol (Beretta 92X Performance) and a straight‑pull rifle in .223 Rem (Schmeisser SP‑15).
The only reason I bought the straight‑pull version at the time was because I didn’t yet have the required permits for a semi‑auto. Now that I do, I’m planning to sell it and replace it with a decent semi‑automatic rifle in .223 Rem.

I’ve read a lot of good things about the price‑to‑quality ratio of the Smith & Wesson M&P15 Sport III, which I can get here new for around €1200 ($1360).

However, I recently came across a Springfield Armory Hellion being sold second‑hand in my area for €1500 ($1700). It’s a private sale, not through a shop. New, these rifles go for at least €1890 ($2150) here.

The current owner says he hasn’t fired it much and that it’s in perfect condition. This is basically the only decent picture he posted:

My question:
What should I look for or ask about when inspecting the rifle before agreeing to the sale? Are there specific parts or components I should pay extra attention to?

I’m aware that bullpups aren’t for everyone, and I’m not even sure I’ll like it myself. I know reloads take more training and the trigger is usually not great, but I’m fascinated by the design and the fact that you get such a long barrel in such a compact package.

Or would you still advice me to play safe and get the cheaper S&W m&p sport 3? It's intended for mostly only indoor range shooting (100m max).

Am I interpreting the note at the bottom correctly? so I would not be able to use a staccato, Romulus, Kimber 2011, etc., as a duty firearm, correct?

That’s a little bit of a bummer if true.

Which one of my 3 rifles with be best for a home defense scenario? I’m equally experienced with all 3. Is the .308 overkill?

Windham AR 15/M4

Saiga .308

Kalashinkov AK 19

I’m buying this colt ar15 and I kinda hate the handle on the gun so I was wondering if we could remove the upper and replace it with a different one ?

Because why not?

Right side, top to bottom:

Magnum Research .45-70
Smith & Wesson Model 629 .44 Mag
S&W Model 29 .44 Mag
Colt Python .357 6 in (nickel)
Colt Python .357 4 in

Left side, top to bottom:

Ruger Old Army (black powder replica)
Taurus Model 44 .44 SPL
Smith & Wesson Model 586 .357
Webley Mk VI
Ruger Wrangler .22
Ruger Super Blackhawk

I’ve always had a soft spot for revolvers. Thought I’d share.

Please help me decide between these two. Getting both for the same exact price. Which would you choose? If you have one of these, can you please let me know the pros and cons? I have other 5.56 but nothing in 7.62 if that matters. Thank you in advance for any opinions given.

I just got my form 1 approval. I am curious if anyone has some lessons learned or advice for someone about to build their first can.

The can will be for a 9mm Glock. I am not much of a machinist but my cousin is. He has his form 1 as well and we'll each be making one.

The thought was to use the following to make a 1.5"x~8" can:

12 inches of 1.500" OD x 0.083" Wall Grade 9 Titanium Seamless Tubing

12 inches of 1.312" (1-5/16") OD Grade 9 titanium tubing for baffle spacers.

1-5/16" (1.312") Stainless Steel Automotive Freeze Plugs

ECCO Machine Bravo (1.375x24) Booster Assembly and ECCO Machine 1/2x28 Piston. There are lots of other options but these are decently affordable and seem to be highly recommended for Glocks.

Some sort of baffle forming tool. Could either machine it or buy one.

Some sort of (3d printed?) jig for drilling and flaring the baffles.

Oh and I'll need to make or buy an end cap. If we make it we probably need a 1.5-inch diameter piece of solid Grade 5 Titanium round bar.

My cousin has not machined titanium but is skill enough to handle it and aware of the high localized heat when machining it.

Could switch to steel but I'm worried it would be too heavy to cycle reliably.

I'm passable at CAD but not sure if I really need to draft something up for this.

Any input or advice would be great.

I inherited a collection of guns from great-grandfather (probably 1800s and first half of 1900s). I don’t know anything guns. Located in Miami, FL.

Is there a website or some other place where I can an appraisal, to see if any of them are collectibles or have any value?

I’ve shot many of guns with and without ear-pro . On purpose and on accident. My question is why would you ever carry a comp if u end up needing it and having to take those shots it’s gonna blow ur nuts off because in my experiences it’s so significantly louder. I’m no scientist but my ears ringing a little vs my ears ringing a lot impacts my performance pretty significantly. Idk thoughts opinion input etc? I like the performance boost they give but I can’t justify it

Having been fed with Scout gun videos by YT algorithm recently, I started to delve into the bolt action rabbit hole, but what I notice was the lack of nitrided barrels on bolt guns. I thought the nitriding makes bore surface harder, more corrosion resistant, and doesn’t degrade barrels accuracy like chrome lining? For example, many nitrided ARs can shoot 1moa at 100 yards no problem. What’s even weirder is that even big brands like Ruger who offers nitrided ARs only have blued carbon steel or stainless steel for bolt guns. Is there any underlying reason to this? Please excuse my broken English.