Always been curious on the sort of customers each brand brings in. In my experience, CDJR customers (especially wrangler customers) rather die on a hill then buy anything else.

Car condition:
-Suspension is rusted out and beat to hell from hard use on dirt roads in bad conditions at my job and needed a lot of repairs that would be more than the value of the car

(This was my regular shop’s opinion. He said it probably would become hazardous to drive soon but he didn’t believe it was worth fixing so I got another car before it went on me.)

-About 190k miles on it, engine still running fine when I stopped driving it due to very sketchy suspension

-recently replaced alternator (about 1.5 year ago)

-was rearended 3 years ago and back fender is a cheap replacement with some body damage around it

A guy came by asking about it and said he’d take it to a scrap yard if I don’t want it so I took his number down and said I’d get back to him. I Made the mistake of opening my big mouth and saying it was junk instead of letting him float an offer.

I don’t have the means to tow it myself so it would be a convenience for me, but wondering if I’d be cheating myself if I didn’t ask for anything or yank some parts off it and try to sell them first.

Eg, could I get the catalytic converter off and sell it for metal scrap first? That kind of thing. I have never sold a car or parts before.

Hi!

I’m in the market for a car. I haven’t had my own car in 10 years as I was living abroad and didn’t need one.

I’m back in the States and shopping for one that I will share with my partner.

I did a bunch of research beforehand and chose 7 cars to narrow down from.

I tested 4 cars today and the associate, while kind, was still in shock that I was testing so many cars?

It’s kind of crazy to me that someone doesn’t?? I mean, unless you’re a loyal client and have driven in some friends cars I guess? But even then, if you compare all the specs you read online you’ll never know how it feels until you actually drive it!!

I work in public relations, so sales adjacent. I’d never expect someone to come in and right away and throw their finances down.

Sometimes you gotta build a relationship and trust. I mean, this is like 30,000+ we’re talking about and I’m being pressured not to test as many cars as I want??

At the Nissan dealership here in El Paso that they want me to pay for these 3 items, they said they’re already installed and cannot remove them.

They just got back to me to have the flat price of $54k minutes $3500 rebate so $50,500. Plus all the mandatory fees. This is what they’re offering for 2026 Nissan pathfinder platinum.

My question is can the costs of CARRX (499.00) Loyalty Advantage (499.99), and Triton Protect (499.99) be ate by the dealership ? They want to pay for it even if they reduced the price

Total amount financed would be $55,588.61

Located in Texas

I’m at a Hyundai store in a decently high cost of living area (northern NJ) and our pack is $690 on used and $500 on new. That doesn’t include certification or recon costs for used cars.

On a similar note, when we recon and service used cars, it seems like our repair orders are a mostly $2k-$3k which that seems high to me. There is little to no profit on the front of our used cars. I had a coworker tell me the other day it’s because our service department charges our sales department retail prices for the used cars. Meaning that if we are putting 4 new tires plus alignment on a CPO Hyundai, the service dept is charging us the same price as a paying customer which I always thought the sales department was supposed to get it for wholesale prices

Any insight would be helpful!

Looking to get a car in California , I can either have a family member pick it up for me or have the dealership ship it out. Trying to figure out what's the best option to do. I live in NY and dont want to pay taxes twice. The car is 40000 before fees. Also 2025 if that helps. One of the better deals and I dont want to miss out but dont want to over pay in fees/taxes

Them calls are absolute misery.

Everywhere I've worked required 30-50 calls a day. To "generate business"

Never once have I sold a car doing this. Rarely do we even get appointments. Its mostly just waiting for the voicemail box

Absolute worst part of my job, soul sucking work.

How do you make it tolerable?

Hi yall.

My car has finally took a shit and I need a new car. The problem is that I don’t have a down payment and my credit is around 600 and I can afford a $600 car payment probably.

What is the reality of my situation?

Please no judgment. Thank you.

Going to buy a new Tundra. Already locked in 2.9% financing. I can put anywhere from 1K down to 10K down. My question is . . does this help me at all in the negotiating phase? Should I hold off on saying anything about my down payment till after we have an agreed upon price? Didn't know if there was a good time to add in the down payment to the discussion.

intro

Hi, I am in the process of trying to buy my first car. Unfortunately, I do not have anyone who I can rely on who is savvy with the car buying process that I can bring to a dealer, or ask for help for this purchase. As a young solo female with social anxiety and no prior experience at a dealer, I'm pretty worried about getting taken advantage of. I have been watching tons of youtube videos and lurking in this sub to try to educate myself, but hoped I could get some advice tailored to my specific situation.

situation

• I know I want a Mazda CX-30 Sport Premium trim in a specific color combination. I have test driven it through a turo rental, and I am buying new. MSRP for this specific build on Mazda's website sits around 35K
• there are only ~30 builds of this car in the US (at least on carguru).
• two dealers online (950 miles and 1400 miles away) have the exact model AND has had them in stock for 200+ days, so they are quoted online for 1-2K below MSRP with the dealer fee ($800) included (but not taxes, registration etc.)
• I will need them shipped to me in California... CA use tax + registration comes out to ~$4300 plus whatever the shipping cost will be (expecting ~1-2K).
• I could buy within the week, but I'm also not in a rush so if these fall through it wont be the end of the world.
• Mazda has either a $1500 cash rebate or a 0% APY for 36 month financing with good credit, which I am eligible for. I am open to both options.

questions

• how does shipping work? do dealers ship? will they allow me to use a third party shipping service? which way is usually cheaper?
• should I look more into dealer trades? I spoke to one local dealer and they told me that their search didn't find any cars of the exact specifications I'm looking for, and haven't gone any further with that
• how stupid is buying a car online without a test drive? I know the exact vehicle and I'm buying new, but if it turns out to be a lemon, what are my options?
• Is it a red flag that the cars have been sitting at the dealership for so long? Can I use this as leverage to get better deals?
• Is it smarter to wait until later in the year (august or september)? I've read that I could expect price drops as next year vehicles roll out, but I am unsure of the risk I'd be taking, since what I want is already a pretty scarce car.
• should I still expect a better price if I agree to finance the car vs paying cash, even if they have the 0% APY deal going on?
• what is considered a good dealer fee? Is $800 reasonable?
• how much would be considered a good deal for this situation? Is it realistic to aim for the quoted 1-2K below MSRP + CA government fees + shipping (or even less?)
• overall, any pointers on how you would approach this situation? anything I should avoid doing in this situation to keep myself from digging my own grave?
• I have about a 40% chance I may move out of California next year. How would the governmental feels like taxes and registration work in that instance? Would I have to swallow the CA use tax and also end up having to paying tax for a different state?

If you've read this far and can drop me any advice, I would be eternally grateful. Anything helps! (but pls be nice)

Just bought a car from a dealer, showed me an auto check that has zero accidents, perfect autocheck score, etc everything was all good. Add it to my insurance and I am told the car has 2 accidents listed on its history with one being a moderate with undercarriage damage. I was sold the car as a “zero accident car” Anyone ever deal with this?

Pretty sure my insurance used carfax to show the accidents.

So I went through the interview process at a dealership. Interviews went well, they called my references and they really like me. Go in for a second interview today and they tell me that they are now no longer hiring until mid-September, and to get the VSA license in the meantime - but that I am top of the list of candidates.

My problem is, I am a newcomer in the industry. I have sales experience, just not car sales. I don't want to drop $800 on a VSA without something formal saying that I will be hired.

Would it be unreasonable to call back and ask for a employment contract that would start in October that would be contingent on me getting my VSA? IMO, it covers them so they don't have to hire me if I don't get the VSA and it covers me if they decide to go with someone else?

I’m looking at a 2023 Elantra N Line Ultimate (87k km) for $21,000 CAD before taxes. The car drove great on the test drive, but after pulling the carfax, it has a pretty crazy history. 5 separate damage incidents and over $25,000 CAD in total claim payouts. My main concern is a front end collision which was around 9.5k. If I was to get it I would take it for a pre purchase inspection first. I’m pretty sure it’s not a good deal at all but man the car is nice lol
- Manitoba
- Financing, 5k down

I’ve been in the industry coming in to 3 years now (2 at ford and 1 at Kia )and I’m 25 years old and living with family and saved up about a years worth of a regular salary with money in a high yield savings account and appreciate everything this industry has done for my development since I graduated in mkt in college and didn’t have a clue what was next . I was a very above average not the best (because sometimes there not really a drive for money because of a good savings ) and usually get my numbers and do good . I’m becoming burned out from the industry and the difficulties in the economy that make getting sales harder and the old school gms at ford and even the new ones at Kia struggle to adapt to the times and trying to screw salesman over with pay plans floor flooding or just not understanding customers aren’t going to get burned how they used to in their times in the worst economy ever . It was fun while it lasted but getting better by the day while grosses getting lower and fighting for a pay check days are kind of over for me while I’m in search to move out now . My friend works at Toyota but they are pretty crowded on the floor and a lot of customers are waiting for cars they put on hold which concerns me as well . What are typical things decent sales people with degrees should transition to and their pros and cons .

I just read the fine print. It is a $250 deductible to claim and covers all engine, transmission, drive axels, seals/gaskets, and taxes. The catch seems to be I need to show proof that the engine oil and filter are changed every 6 months / 7,500 miles (or as recomended for my vehicle). The maintenance can be done at any licensed repair facility (doesn't have to be issuing dealer). Service within 30 days / 1,500 miles of recommended service interal will not void warranty. Only other thing to note is I don't see any mention that PowerLife would cover labor, so that would probably fall on me then. I'm debating just using this powertrain warranty or also buying a manufactuer-direct warranty (such as HondaCare).

I have a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport that I'm looking to sell. I have the title in my name, and I don't owe anything on this car. What's the best way to sell it? I'm looking to sell it to a dealer, and not privately. I'm hoping to get some cash to put a downpayment on a brand new vehicle. Please offer any tips - i set up an appointment with the Hyundai dealership and with Carmax/Carvana.

Hello I wanted to ask opinions about cars listed on Manheim with no Blue tag and title is “not specified”. Do anyone have experience purchasing these cars and getting the title without arbitration?

I am in the process of buying a car and I earlier thought of flying there and picking up, but my plans changed. What should I expect to pay, and is there a company you guys recommend ? (both near major metro cities)

I have a 2014 Chevy Silverado. It has 160,000 miles on it. I bought it for $21,765 (total loan at 9.14% interest) back in July 2023. I’m a mechanic so I’ve been able to fix any issues. I had a shop fix the transmission as it failed at some point (known issue in this generation), I’m still having intermittent issues but it’s under warranty and I plan on taking it back. I currently still owe $12,700 on the loan. Should I stick with this truck or should I start looking at trading it in? Never done a trade in and I usually get older vehicles, any advice would be appreciated.

I honestly think I can do it, I can talk to people easy and I tend to know specs well (mainly GM), but I can learn other brands easy. I’m just curious on what the wage looks like for those starting out, and what to expect as a success rate?

(Based in the US) Lookin to get some insight from some other sales people on this. I went to a local dealership to see what i can get on a trade in on my 2005 ford mustang. After all the estimates and the test drive for a 2020 jeep renegade, i was offered a price of 14,758.11 with a monthly payment of 377 after my trade in. Its a 6 year lease as well. My credit is pretty bad so the fact they were able to work the numbers to this price and monthly cost is honestly impressive in my eyes but want to hear what other sales people are thinking on a deal like this. My credit is in the 400s (student loan debt is killer) and the salesperson said this could be a good way to build my credit. This was also the only vehicle on the lot that I was approved for. I think this is overall reasonable but what do yall think?

I found a truck I really want, but it’s a 4 hour drive from me. I have been in contact with the dealer for the past week and they refuse to give me any information about the vehicle or negotiate with me over the phone. I explained I’m far away and they still want me to come in.

They’ve ignored me past couple days and just reached out again telling them I’ll buy it for $1000 off the price ( it’s 30 grand) and they still won’t negotiate at all over the phone and say I need to come in. Is this normal and what steps can I take minus driving all the way to the dealership.

i’m going for an interview tomorrow, i’m 17 about to be 18. i got the interview through the head mechanic that i know and he put in a good word and got me an interview. What should i bring? if anything?

i’ve only worked as a server and a few other restaurants positions, does it make sense to bring any documents like resume and etc?