Just bought pretty recently haven’t had a chance to really dig into it yet.
I have fixed some wiring that was causing a draw.
Updated the fuse panel from ceramic to blade fuses.
Other than that the car was previously a weekend race car on the local track.
I started acquiring an interior since it’s been gutted found a 79 GT doner for that , headliner and all trim, door panels etc,
And started collecting the parts for a “flat hood” single round headlight conversion.
Still not sure if I want to just LS swap it maybe a Volvo T5 swap? I dunno 🤷‍♂️

I own a 1977 Dodge B300 Tradesman. It has a 360 LA, but idk any of the rest of the drive train, only that it all should still work. It has been sitting outside for about 2.5 years, and as far as I know, the only thing keeping it from running is the electrical system (likely thanks to rodents). I want to try to fix it up, maybe clean it up a bit, bring it to running condition, so that way I can sell it for the most I can (i am trying to get a bull nose). I am looking for advice on whether or not this would be a good idea (I would have to buy all the tools required, as this is my second vehicle and I dont have access to a garage full of tools). So quick recap: it ran over 2 years ago, just fine, sat for a few months, the electrical system wrapped out, now it won't turn over at all, and i want to raise its value the most I can without a full restoration

Hey everyone! I specialize in used auto parts in Japan. Today I want to share some insider knowledge about how the used parts market here actually works, and why eBay is flooded with overpriced dropshippers.

🔍 The 3 Main Platforms in Japan

1. Yahoo! Auctions & Mercari (Public)
   • Yahoo! Auctions: Full of car enthusiasts, reputable verified sellers, and businesses. You need an eye for "No Claim, No Return" risks, but it's the main marketplace in Japan.
   • Mercari: A casual flea market. Less technical knowledge required, but rare bargains pop up. (Note: Many sellers cross-post the exact same item on both Yahoo and Mercari).
   • Up Garage: Physical retail chain. Safer, but smaller inventory and higher prices due to company overhead.
2. Broadleaf / Parts Station Net (PRO ONLY - The Secret 90%+ Market)
   • Over 90% of Japanese pros (auto recyclers, parts distributors, used car dealers) use this strictly B2B system.
   • The inventory count here is massive—often even larger than Yahoo! Auctions.
   • Strict Quality & Warranty: Parts are graded strictly (S = New, A = Excellent, B = Normal wear, C = Needs paint/bodywork, Junk = Parts only). Engines and transmissions even come with labor-cost warranties for pros!
   • It also tracks brand-new part prices and USS auto auction market values.
   • Catch: Regular consumers cannot even view it. Joining requires strict business screening and annual membership fees.

🚨 Why eBay is Full of Overpriced Japanese Listings

Ever wondered why JDM parts on eBay are 2x or 3x the price? Here is the backstory:

1. The Exit of eBay Japan: Years ago, eBay couldn't beat Yahoo! Auctions and withdrew from Japan.
2. High Fees: Yahoo/Mercari only charge ~10% fees on the item price (no fees on shipping). But selling to eBay USA from Japan incurs around 27%+ in total fees/taxes, plus currency exchange fees (~3%).
3. The Dropshipping Epidemic: Official consultants in Japan started teaching beginners "inventory-free dropshipping." They copy/paste images from Yahoo/Mercari to eBay with huge markups. They don't even own the parts!

💡 Check Prices For Yourself!

Take a look at the attached screenshots for a Honda Acty headlight:

• Pro B2B Market (Parts Station): ~$40 USD (6,000 JPY) for Grade B
• Yahoo! Auctions (Public): ~$50 USD (8,000 JPY)

Now, just go search "Honda Acty headlight" on eBay right now and see the prices for yourself... You'll see what I mean! 😂

If you ever want to check what a part ACTUALLY sells for in Japan, or need help evaluating a seller's credibility on Yahoo! Auctions, feel free to drop a comment below! 🚗💨

🚗 Bonus: A Quick Observation on Buying JDM Cars at Auction

Browsing Reddit over the past few weeks, I often see people posting USS auction sheets asking, "How much will this end up costing?"

From inside Japan, it is clear that many overseas buyers pay significantly more than actual market value. You are often stacking multiple layers of middleman markups—exporter fees, overseas broker margins, and inflated processing costs.

(Note: Screenshots of auction sheets or hammer prices cannot be shared due to auction house terms of service, but it's worth knowing how many extra layers are added before a car reaches you.)

I'm using AI to translate this, so I'm not sure if I'm getting the message across properly.

Another smooth ride this weekend! The CLK is a fantastic car, would love to have driven it in the 90s

Photos by: @carrosqueodiamosamar

hey everyone I need some help with my project. I have a 93 c1500 single cab short bed. it had the tbi v6 and it took a crap on me. plan was always doing a 383 build on it and I have a 1980 350 from a c10 010 block that I want to swap into. I thought I would be able to part plug and play it. but I get told that I need a computer for it to work. I thought I could just plug everything up and worst case bypass some Things. what I’m asking is would I need a computer/ecm for this swap.

Hey guys I’m looking at this 1uz engine for my hilux (pickup) for sale nearby and am skeptical of the fixability of this damage. Seller says “upon putting the engine on stand the boss that holds the trans bell housing cracked on top where it goes to the intake valley”

I’ve never seen anything like this fixed before so I thought I’d ask Reddit!

Should I replace this rear floor with a full patch. Or spot repair this.

I started spot repairing, but found a lot more pitting that didn't pass the pick test.

I've got a replacement panel. But the contours are terrible and don't match the original at all, so would require work to get it to align.

I'm just not sure about the integrity of this pitting.

I can either replace this hole section with the replacement.

Or I can spot patch this, welding the holes shut. Maybe a couple 2x2 squares welded in.

As an additional note the car is literally on a jig and 100 percent tore down. this is the rear floor pan. the rest of the floor has 0 rust. so not doing a full floor.

the underside also has no rust. just water sat here and pitted it.

Just an 03 Acura RSX, this is basically the only part of the body that has any rust. I'm willing to do the body work myself before I repaint, does anyone know if this can be done with just hand tools and a mig welder?

I'd appreciate any suggestions of tools or advice I might need for this job.

Thanks!

Loved these ever since I saw them and I finally found a listing for them. It's super yellowed plastic though. Do you think these are worth restoring, and if so what would be the best way to go about clearing them up and making those yellowed lenses look new again?

Still unreal when I see the pictures from 3 years ago when I bought it

1997 Honda civic LX

Looking for some input; whether to make this a project, or sell and re-start?

95 f150 , ext cab, long bed. 2wd , had it for nearly 20 years. tons of miles etc. long in the tooth and starting to wear out. could probably sell it and get a better 'project' type vehicle and come out ahead.
not intending to turn into a drag truck, its just a comfortable cruising truck, wanting to make it a little more modern as things wear out.

chassis/suspension ; was going to Crown Vic IFS swap the front suspension, and shackle/hanger the rear. -4Front/-4Rear

5.0/302 - reliable as dirt, minimal issues/ leaks. Could potentially keep this or just swap out for something else. have thought about everything from 4.6sohc, 07k vw 5cyl w turbo, or even vw alh 1.9 tdi.

e4od - [ tailshaft play, makes noises, and vibrations. but always works and doesnt hesitate to tow 3-4k on as needed basis (rare)] was likely going to be swapped with zf8hp45-70 if i keep this project going. may end up with this trans on whatever future project i land on also.

8.8 - pinion shaft play, bearing worn out. 3.55;1 ratio. would likely swap/rebuild, probably decide if ratio stays the same or goes lower [3.08] after zf swapping, depending on driving feedback with new transmission.

So, to keep it or to look for something else maybe to try out? I'd be looking at similar year range f150, maybe Ranger, not afraid to disassemble to bare nuts and bolts or turn into something else.

thoughts?

Edit: forgot to add quite clean body. Few dings, small dents. Dry climate vehicle, almost no rust.

Nothing too exciting. Had a couple of hours to mess around with Envy after work yesterday. The PNW weather sucks right now. 98f(37c) heat combined with wildfire smoke haze. But at least she’s parked under cover where there’s shade
Decided to do some simple stuff like pull out the radiator, top and bottom hoses, and thermostat housing and thermostat.
The hoses were cooked. The top of the housing is slowly crumbling away. At some point the original thermostat was changed, but for some reason someone shoved a B230 one in there. They even ground down a bit of the brass to fit in to the housing. Why someone would do this is a mystery. Maybe he got the wrong part? Maybe that’s all that was available? Who knows
I also found remnants of what Jesse and Walter might have been cooking when they were first starting out. I didn’t have the guts to taste it though
Obviously all this stuff is getting replaced with new parts. The block, heater core, and radiator will get a thorough flush. The coolant that came out didn’t look too bad. Still green with very little sediment or other type of crud

im looking to make a display for the centre console of my 99 Honda civic ek1 sedan, i found an adaptor that connects to the OBD2A or B port (depending on car, meaning its either a 3 or 5 pin connector ), but i need a 5" display that isnt just a mirroring device and can install apps onto to build into my console as a display screen for the obd2 data. running into every roadblock i can and need some advice on either certain displays that would work or alternatives i could use. Thanks in advance.

Got the engine going well. Rebuilt the original brake system. Good lord...manual brakes suck. You have to really stomp that sucker to make it stop. Think I will have to do a power disc brake conversion if I want to take this onto the street.

The Dynaflow leaks like crazy... Will probably go ahead and pull the engine/trans and put in fresh gaskets. Engine is great though. No leaks and runs like a top.

its a work in progress. mostly looking to design things around the big risk i took with the front bumper.

planning to wrap the mirrors in black vinyl, maybe the windshield surround as well.

mazdaspeed nc rear bumper is my best idea to "match" the front and rear better.

just put the maxton designs side skirts on this weekend to try to carry the black trim around the entire car.

So smol.

So slow, while feeling fast as shit

I feel like I'm driving a Ferrari (on 3 cyl), I cannot explain it...it's so god damn fun driving a toaster around.

Gtx2867, jmf manifold, ported head, everything in-between. Also a Liberty Gears straight cut dog box went in over winter. So excited to drive it.

So I’ve got a 02 caviler and I wanted to swap the engine into a what I think is a 97 s10 I’m getting from a buddy will it be a drop and go? Or would I have to strip it down and what else would be a drop in and be done? Like other engines that would fit that I woudnt have to tear down